Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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14 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been growing tomatoes in pots at North Sydney for the last 10 years. Each year is more problematic and depressing than the previous even though I sterilise pots and use new potting mix each year. Plants start off very healthy then about the time that fruit set, the plants start yellowing from the bottom and within a few weeks they are history. This year was interesting in that I placed the pots on a second story balcony well away from previous plantings on the assumption that whatever was killing the plants near the ground may not exist on the balcony. I planted in September, great plants until mid November when they did the same thing - started yellowing from the bottom up and ended up basically dead after a few weeks. I took one of the plants (Mighty Red) which was dead except for one small leaf about 10mm above ground level. I cut the plant off completely immediately above this leaf and planted it in a new garden bed we have recently created in the area where we had previously used pots. For a couple of weeks nothing happened then the plant started growing and now in mid March we have just picked 3 large tomatoes off a very healthy (large) plant with another 15 or so tomatoes still on the plant. I still don't know what causes the problem but the experiment with this 'Lazarus' plant is nothing if not interesting.
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17 Mar 19, Gerrard Kavanagh (Australia - temperate climate)
Have harvested lots of good tomatoes including green ones yesterday. Most plants dried and look like they are dying back. However some appear to have started some healthy looking new growth. Do I pull them all out and get ready for peas or other nitrogen rich crop or see what happens with the new growth?
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20 Jan 19, Nick (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes in late January in sydney
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06 Mar 15, (Australia - temperate climate)
Yellowing leaves mean it is underfed which happens easier in pots. Feed with lots of compost and dynamic lifter. Use liquid fertiliser as well. A quick acting and compost and dynamic lifter will keep the plants going longer term
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25 Sep 14, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Do the smoke-tobacco carries a fungus disease .
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16 Aug 14, Matt (Australia - temperate climate)
Its to hot and humid in Sydney to grow tomatoes well in Dec /Jan Get your plants going early inside and grow from Aug to Nov then have a break then start again in Feb when temps just drop a little .Cherry tomatoes will do much better .All tomatoes don't like being moved so try and seed them where they will stay and don't water the foliage and smokers shouldn't touch the leaves or the plants at all they hate it.And the ones you neglect and that come up by themselves will always do better than the ones you put your heart into. They also need calcium (egg shells).Dont touch them!
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08 Aug 14, Don (Australia - temperate climate)
I live on the lower north shore in sydney and every year I plant my tomatoes and they start to flower in abundance as there a no bees here I go around with a small paint brush and try and pollinate them going from flower to flower but being as careful as I can doing this exercise ,I disturb them and they fall off and only a few make it to a tomato stage where am I going wrong a frustrated tomato grower.
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23 Jul 14, Sagala (Australia - temperate climate)
Watch out for bugs and pests as they can leave little holes in the tomatoes so be careful when picking
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12 Aug 11, Coogee (Australia - temperate climate)
To be honest, our water supply is polluted with high concentrations of fluoride. also, persistent con trails being sprayed over the city and coast are detrimental to the the health of the plants. Try using filtered water and keeping them out of the rain.
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15 Apr 11, leon (Australia - arid climate)
Hi i have been trying to find out earlyest date i can plant tomatoe seeds in perth western australia would it be after the shortest day of the year? I can bring them up on a window sill if its to cold just wondering about the sun longth.
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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