Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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31 Mar 10, Anna (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm trying to grow tomatos currently, I planted small Roma plants about a month or so ago (I don't know anything about tomatos) and now I plants about 1m big with around 10 small green tomatos which are being eaten by big green grubs (cabbage moth, I think). The leaves are drying out and falling away and the whole plant seems to be dying. I've got the two plants in 2 large self-waterig pots and I water them every second day. At this stage I'm afraid the plants will die before the tomatos ripen. For the grubs, I sprayed the plants and tomatos with cold coffee - it worked on slugs. My question is: what am I doing wrong?
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31 Mar 10, Joel (Australia - temperate climate)
For years my father has used string instead of stakes to support his tomato plants which seems to work extremely well. If there is anything to tie on to above the plants (such as framing for shade cloth) run a string from near the base of the plant (secured with something like a tent peg) to the overhead tie off point and then as your plant grows simply twist it around the string and this will support the weight of the main stalk
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29 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
Aster read my posts of March 14th and 27th. I did the same thing as you - cut a dying plant off at the ground and now have had the best crop of large tomatoes ever. Difference is I also transplanted the cutoff plant into a garden bed rather than leave it in a pot. Barb and Pete have suggested the problem was tomato russet mite and I think they are probably correct. Good luck with your new cutoff plants.
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27 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
A tip regarding staking. Lots of people seem to use strips of material for tieing to stakes or use commercial ties of various types. I find that Chux kitchen wipes (or equivalent). The material that they are made from has a 'grain' in one direction so it is easy to tear off narrow strips by hand. These are very soft but strong so they don't damage the plant at all. The strength is obviously a function of the strip width you tear off but I find strips about 1cm wide are strong enough for standard ties and will last a full season.
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27 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
An update on my post of 14th May regarding the 'Lazarus' plant. I have now harvested about 14 beautiful tomatoes ranging from 250 to 320 gm and have at least another 12 or so to go. The plant just keeps growing and setting fruit. I think the comments from Barb and Pete regarding my problem being tomato russet mite fit the evidence. Presumably if this was the problem, by cutting the plant to the ground in mid December and replanting I removed the infestation.
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26 Mar 10, aster (Australia - temperate climate)
I bought 2 young tomato plants; a cherry tomato and berry tomato. I repotted them into a bigger pot and added in Herb and Vegetable pot mix. Berry grew up very healthy and well and even started to flower. However, on the first sight of flower, the leaves started to curled downwards and later the leaves turns dry ( felt like crepe paper to the touch) and finally drying /dying from bottom branches. I spotted a young shoot growing from the lower branch and I trimmed off the the plant just above the shoot. Now the young shoot grew up well, at least for now... The same problem now happen to my cherry tomato plant, the first sight of flower, the leaves curled from the top of the plant while from the bottom up, the leaves just dry up slowly and surely. Please advise what happenned to my tomato plants as I've done all I know, watering them regularly and putting them in a sunny spot. Watching them grow and in anticipation of the fruit is a joy turned to disappointment.
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25 Mar 10, Sola Ogunlola (Australia - tropical climate)
Hi all, I'm not in Australia, just that the option box does not make provision for my great country Nigeria. I want to grow tomatoes and pepper in this tropical African most populous nation. Does any one has interest in partnering with me technologically. We have the manpower and the land. kindly revert as soon as possible. thank you
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22 Mar 10, Keny (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Are there any tomatoes that I can grow from March? Redland Bay QLD.
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18 Mar 10, pete (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
hi ian, i tend to agree with barb - i took a whole plant of mine out to the nursery - roots were fine so not nematodes she cut through the stem with secatuers and that was fine too. she told me to spray with wettable sulphur and as barb said use seaweed/fish fertiliser - have done and it seems to have arrested the yellowing. also told me to feed weekly. so planted some new plants (grosse lisse) and am trying those. i have had this problem ever since moving to this house (10 years) only variety i had limited success with was black russian - cheers
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15 Mar 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Ian, Sounds like it could have been tomato russet mite, exacerbated by hot dry weather. Spraying the leaves lightly with a foliar feed of a very weak seaweed mixture every week or two should also help. Feeding the plant with decent (home made) compost, worm wee or seaweed/fish emulsion, etc should also strengthen the plants against attack. Glad you ended up with a good harvest!
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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