Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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11 Mar 10, Simi (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I had that same problem from a few weeks all that rain we had.. sorted itself out now just make sure good drainage and have a look at how much you are watering. To much and they will split.
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08 Mar 10, Sim (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Marion, it's due to either too much watering or irregular watering. Tomatoes will split when they absorbed too much water than the skin can expand. Try reducing amount of watering but keep the frequency of watering. Can't do much about the tomatoes already split.
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07 Mar 10, Marion (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some yellow pear tomatoes the bush is huge and has plenty of tomates on however they are splitting, can anyone tell me why?
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15 Jun 10, Michele -- Tassy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hiya Marion ... Had the same problem, pretty much lost the "final" harvest theis year from splitting. When you water do so at soil level therefore watering the roots keeping the fruit and foliage dry. Fruits split when they get wet and are then exposed to the sun. Cheers
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04 Mar 10, Steve (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
This year I grew four sorts, Black cherry, marmande, Kotlas and one other I forget. All from the Lost Seed Company. For the first time ever I applied monsterous neglect and I've had my best ever crops. At least 20 kilos so far and still growing strong. Other than an automatic watering over three weeks in December I have done almost nothing. No shoot removal, bad supports, they have sprawled into one huge mess of about 6 square metres which cover the ground so much that weeds have no chance at all. (I haven't weeded since I planted them). I just stick an arm into the pile and pick beautiful toms. I've even left chewed one to drop and rot as it's too hard. I think I've finally discovered the secret to tomato growing.
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27 Feb 10, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomatoes have been disappointing this year as well . The Black Russian and Cherry's producing hardly any fruit .The pot grown Romas which i let bush out and basically ignored did the best.So maybe a little neglect is the way to go. Marissa if you live in Adelaide there has been a fruit fly outbreak so maybe that's the cause of the maggots. Apparently you need to tell the local council if that's the case .
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15 Feb 10, Marissa (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi everyone I have 8 tomatoe plants and experiencing a lot of leaves wilting, fruit rotting at the bottom but the top half is still green plus little black flying insects attacking it and laying eggs in it so when I cut a tomato in half it has maggts inside. Can anyone tell me what to do?
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08 Feb 10, Claudia (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato leaves are yellowing and dying off but I still have plenty of fruit which has been ripening daily. I used the Diggers seeds for the first time and have Tigerella & Tommy Toe Reds. They are in old steel caged plastic water tanks just over 1 meter squared. If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it as this is my first time at planting & want to maintain fruiting as long as I can. Thanks
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25 May 12, malcolm (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have the same trouble i donte know the answer but i have done some reaserch its lack of irion or to cold i have one tomatoe out of 4 plants with all plenty of fruit i have just saulfited iron for grass try that godd luck ps sorry about the spelling
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05 Feb 10, Lyndall lightbody (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi lyndall here again still serching for a particular reason my tomato flowers are falling off and not baring any fruit! It's not from too much water and they are very well drained??
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Showing 701 - 710 of 815 comments
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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