Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

28 Apr 16, Tania (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Phillip, yellow leaves tend to mean you need more calcium in the soil.... try some chicken manure.
10 Mar 16, Dave McGinlay (Australia - temperate climate)
I have an amazing Roma Tomato plant that is now in it;s third flowering & has produced over 200 tomatoes over the past 18 months(I just trim off the dead foliage) Lately some of the fruit has a very small round hole in them & when cut open reveals a heap of tiny eggs. Could this be some kind of wasp.? I am picking them a bit earlier now as the culprit can;t seem to put a hole in them if they are slightly unripe. Regards Dave McGinlay
15 Mar 16, Jacqueline Comber (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sounds very much like fruit fly...we can't grow in Sumner because of these.
08 Feb 16, Max (Australia - temperate climate)
my Oxheart tomatoes have worms inside them but no entry point how is this possible. It's frustrating as I'm throwing out a lot. Is there something I can do to avoid this /
09 Feb 16, Cecile (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
If I remember correctly, moths lay their eggs in the flowers of the tomato plant, so as the fruit develops from the flower, the eggs mature inside the growing tomato
29 Jan 16, Robyn (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Should I pick the flowers off my tomato plants while the plants are still small?
28 Apr 16, Tania (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Robyn. Picking off the flowers while the plant is still young gives more energy to the roots and leaves. i always pick off the first two trusses to allow for more branching.
10 Jan 16, Jenny (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing my first tomato Beefsteak or something like that can anyone tell me why do the leaves fold in or curl inwards ?? Is this because of too much water ??
11 Apr 16, Digger1 (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sounds like unhappy roots. Roots need oxygen (tiny spaces between soil particles), so heavy soils (clays) or excessive watering can cause leaf curl. Both of these limit available oxygen.
20 Jan 16, Natalie (Australia - temperate climate)
when i have an issue with tomato plant leaves I bag the leaf and take to the a garden centre, they tell me whats happening. i then go home and look on internet for a natural DIY(DO IT YOURSELF) solution. it works a treat.
Showing 401 - 410 of 811 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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