Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Mar	Apr	May	Jun
S
	T	T	T
	P	P

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
P = Sow seed

Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

05 Sep 16, Hazrat (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate): Hi. I'm looking for indeterminate tomatoes. Thanks.i stay in kwa dukuza.
Reply or Post a new comment
01 Sep 16, Terry Salisbury (Australia - temperate climate): Live in Queensland Caloundra Having trouble with Tomatoes (Moneymaker) and Climbing Beans (Scarlet Runner) Both seem to start and then when they are about 12 inches high they just die Would it be the heat Should I shade them Any answers would be welcomed
Reply or Post a new comment
02 Jul 16, Godwin Dimech (Australia - cool/mountain climate): For those who have trouble planting tomato, dry tomato onto hand paper towel space out the seed when dry close to end of year cut every dry seed without having to move them and plantin a deep tray about 4 inches under the house or in a shed keep the tray moist see how u go and let me know. When it comes to veges or summer fruit I have many ideas keeep lin touch and see if I can help anyone
Reply or Post a new comment
30 Apr 16, Lesley (Australia - temperate climate): Hi I am getting oxo heart tomato seeds is it to early to put seeds in and grow them,under a patio I am south of Perth Cheers lesley
Reply or Post a new comment
30 Mar 16, Mike (Australia - temperate climate): Feed with nitrogen rich fert. You can use store bought liquid fert. for quick fix or dig in manure around the base of each plant. There are lots of ways to help boost the minerals in soil, Google is your friend.
Reply or Post a new comment
30 Mar 16, David (Canada - Zone 2b Sub-Arctic climate): Best Tomato seeds to use in this Zone 2b Sub-Arctic?
Reply or Post a new comment
12 Jun 18, Lisa the Transplant (Canada - zone 4a Temperate Warm Summer climate): Hi David :) I am in Northern NL Canada and if you are not doing greenhouse tomatoes, actually...the Artic tomato is perfect for zone 3-4.
Reply or Post a new comment
31 Mar 16, David (Canada - Zone 2b Sub-Arctic climate): So, I asked for the names of tomato seeds that best grows in my region. Zone 2b Sub-Arctic? Can you help or not!
Reply or Post a new comment
19 Mar 16, hazwl (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate): My green peppers an tomatoes doesn't do well tomatoe leaves turn grey and greenpeper leaves don't look so good. I do treat them with insect sprays it helps but I get one or 2 peppers a time .
Reply or Post a new comment
14 Mar 16, philip hope (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Bright yellow leaves at the tip of the plant what is the soil deficient in? I live just outside of Gympie
Reply or Post a new comment

Showing 391 - 400 of 811 comments

See comments for all plants

Replying to:

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Your name

Where are you?

Email address

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply

Your reply

All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate

Keep your garden growing - see what to plant right now

Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Your comments and tips

Gardenate

Keep your garden growing - see what to plant right now

Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Your comments and tips

Become A Supporter!

Planting Reminders