Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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12 Jan 16, AnnonRabbit (Australia - temperate climate)
I also have this problem and was also wondering the same thing!
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06 Jan 16, Prometheus (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Peter, The conventional wisdom is that yellow tomatoes are lower in acid, or even almost acid free in some cases. So I would probably stick with the best yellow varieties you could find. There is a yellow variety of Roma tomato available that is apparently quite good, though I personally have never grown them. Lemon currant and Jubilee yellow are worth trying. There is also an excellent seed provider on ebay who I have used before for rare chilli seeds - Rahi seed bank. He only packets them in small quantities but if you contact him he may be able to arrange more bulk offerings. I mention him because I just saw that he is selling on ebay a variety called 'Italian Ice' which claims to be 'acid free.' Hope that helps, and wishing you all the best.
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02 Jan 16, Chris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes, break off the piece of tomato in join of leaf and stem, and put in a glass of water. This will grow roots, plant in a pot or garden.Keep moist. In Winter if you need warmth protect with plastic over top but not completely covered. Certain tomatoes do better in winter so check varieties that grow in cooler climates. Cherry tomatoes do well all year in sub tropical. Always have new ones growing, and feed well. Planting fish heads and bits under tomatoes, well down, does wonders. Good luck.
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01 Jan 16, Kim Evans (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Can you grow tomatoes all year round if so could you please tell me how
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01 Jan 16, Derek Bennett (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
We are in S. Mozambique and would like to plant tomatoes yrear round. Please, advise best varities for this purpose, and, plants should be eelworm resistant.
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02 Jan 16, RayS (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
My son lives in a similar climate. He grows currant tomatoes (Solanum pimpinellifolium) as these seem to be the only ones that produce most of the year. He sows often enough that he has plants developing all year. He doesn't get much in the height of the summer (wet season). Hope this helps.
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31 Dec 15, Del Ramos (USA - Zone 13a climate)
Will Bush Beefsteak Tomato grow in my zone? Any growing recomendations?
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24 Dec 15, peter haggarty (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
interested in variaties of acid free tomatoes for inland southeast qld area , please if anyone has any recommendations ??
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29 Dec 15, Tony (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
seeds australia online mention a miniature red pear tomato and a miniature yellow pear that they say are acid free
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15 Dec 15, Cobie (Australia - temperate climate)
I have a tall yellow tomato bush with heaps of large beautiful looking tomatoes. Picked our first yellow tomato last week and the taste was good, but the the flesh was Rather mushy. My question is, did I pick it too late and need to pick it earlier or are the yellow Tomatoes mushy? I can pick them when green and make a chutney, but that's a shame.
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Showing 411 - 420 of 811 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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