Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries
20 Feb 09, Gary Zeng (Australia - temperate climate)
when it is very hot, the roots in the pot might burn by high temperature, get the plant out and put into soil. or you can shield you pot from sunshine to cool down the root.
Reply or Post a new comment
02 Feb 09, Nicole (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Geoff and Domenic, I had perfectly healthy looking tomatoes before the heatwave and now have the same problem, most have developed brown lesions on the base. After googling I think it's blossom end rot caused by water stress from the heat. Can't post a link, but try googling Tomato Problem Solver to see pics.
Reply or Post a new comment
02 Feb 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Geof, could be "blossom end rot" to fix add Calcium Reference Look at ABC gardening videos, December 2008, see Johns Plot Part 1-3 about 8:15 into the video
Reply or Post a new comment
01 Feb 09, Domenic (Australia - temperate climate)
To Geoff i seen to have the same problem not to sure what it is im living in Melbourne.All my tomato's are gone those 3 days of 40+ degree killed everything it looks like a nuclear bomb has hit them ill love to post the pictures.
Reply or Post a new comment
26 Jan 09, GEOFF (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm getting a lot of tomatoes with a brown leathery rot on the base. These are suspended and not making contact with anything. Any suggestions ??
Reply or Post a new comment
24 Jan 09, Domenic (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi i have plenty of tomato's this season but im just noticed alot of my tomatos have been eaten away by some pest it looks like a tiny tiny white fly they have been there for months.They make a small drill hole into my tomato's.And also, the bottom of my tomato's are black its very strange.Never have i seen this in my garden before. i have been using calf manure for some time.These little pests are now eating my peppers and my basil but not my cucumbers and zucchini .Could somebody help??
Reply or Post a new comment
01 Jan 09, sally (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes if i plant them in the next day or two? planting would be approx 3rd Jan 09
Reply or Post a new comment
12 Dec 08, Liz (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Whoops, but the same comments apply to a pot, Tony :)
Reply or Post a new comment
11 Dec 08, Anthony Robert Dawson (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Errrm what bag? I am in a pot :)
Reply or Post a new comment
11 Dec 08, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Tony, check that your potting mix is not too soggy. Although tomatoes like plenty of water, they also need good drainage. Have you got your bag slightly raised off the ground so that excess water can drain away?
Reply or Post a new comment
Showing 761 - 770 of 815 comments
See comments for all plants

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.