Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 May 09, jared (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes i have heard of removing leaves from the plant and i gave it a go and the results are amazing, Im testing out a theory i read about it involves trimming all leave branches from the ground to the first fruit truss, then pinching out all flowers accept the 3 or 4 most healthy looking ones and leave them to grow, then when the next fruit truss comes along do the same but only leave 1 leaf set inbetween each fruit truss do this until you get 4 trusses then trim the top and keep pinching out all of the laterals that come along. i did this with Marmande and Big boy's.
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02 May 09, Emma (United Kingdom - warm/temperate climate)
Annie, If you have loads of green tomatoes then pick them and make green tomato chutney - it's fab ! I did this last year when it rained most of the summer and we're still eating it now.
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13 Apr 09, Cris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Not enough people know about them and they don't travel well, so you rarely find them in a shop. Best tasting tomatoes ever though! Cheers cris
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12 Apr 09, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been growing Ox Hart Tomatoes for the last 3 years after been given some seeds. Why are they so scarce because they taste great?
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07 Apr 09, Annie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi everyone, great site! I have about 15 cherry tomato plants that have self-seeded in amongst other veges. They currently have lots of green tomatoes. Have read previous tips about ripening them and will try that, but was wondering if they are any good green if they don't ripen?
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04 Apr 09, joe (Australia - temperate climate)
hi folks, i heard that removing some leaves from the tomato tree will help produce a better crop! which leaves do we clip off - right at the top ? anyone know?regards and thanx.
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18 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Ken. Tomatos ripen with temperature, I notice you are temperate zone so you should still get enough warm days to ripen the tomatos. If the green tomatos are starting to blush at the base then you can pick and ripen on the window sill. Bananas help ripen fruit (bananas release ethelene gas) so bagging tomato with banana may help
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18 Mar 09, Ken (Australia - temperate climate)
I have large bushy tomato plants that have some green tomatoes slow to ripen. I am quite keen to re-plant the beds with autumn plantings. Can I expect that these plants will still produce red fruit this late in the season or are they likely to remain green?
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12 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Kiah: Bad things happen if you grow Tomatoes in the same place year on year. Better to take them out, compost them, and make a new bed for next season.
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11 Mar 09, Kiah (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi was wondering if when tomatoes have finished producing fruit, is it best to leave the plant in the ground for the next season or take it out and start again
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Showing 751 - 760 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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