Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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11 Mar 10, Simi (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I had that same problem from a few weeks all that rain we had.. sorted itself out now just make sure good drainage and have a look at how much you are watering. To much and they will split.
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08 Mar 10, Sim (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Marion, it's due to either too much watering or irregular watering. Tomatoes will split when they absorbed too much water than the skin can expand. Try reducing amount of watering but keep the frequency of watering. Can't do much about the tomatoes already split.
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07 Mar 10, Marion (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some yellow pear tomatoes the bush is huge and has plenty of tomates on however they are splitting, can anyone tell me why?
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15 Jun 10, Michele -- Tassy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hiya Marion ... Had the same problem, pretty much lost the "final" harvest theis year from splitting. When you water do so at soil level therefore watering the roots keeping the fruit and foliage dry. Fruits split when they get wet and are then exposed to the sun. Cheers
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04 Mar 10, Steve (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
This year I grew four sorts, Black cherry, marmande, Kotlas and one other I forget. All from the Lost Seed Company. For the first time ever I applied monsterous neglect and I've had my best ever crops. At least 20 kilos so far and still growing strong. Other than an automatic watering over three weeks in December I have done almost nothing. No shoot removal, bad supports, they have sprawled into one huge mess of about 6 square metres which cover the ground so much that weeds have no chance at all. (I haven't weeded since I planted them). I just stick an arm into the pile and pick beautiful toms. I've even left chewed one to drop and rot as it's too hard. I think I've finally discovered the secret to tomato growing.
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27 Feb 10, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomatoes have been disappointing this year as well . The Black Russian and Cherry's producing hardly any fruit .The pot grown Romas which i let bush out and basically ignored did the best.So maybe a little neglect is the way to go. Marissa if you live in Adelaide there has been a fruit fly outbreak so maybe that's the cause of the maggots. Apparently you need to tell the local council if that's the case .
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15 Feb 10, Marissa (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi everyone I have 8 tomatoe plants and experiencing a lot of leaves wilting, fruit rotting at the bottom but the top half is still green plus little black flying insects attacking it and laying eggs in it so when I cut a tomato in half it has maggts inside. Can anyone tell me what to do?
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08 Feb 10, Claudia (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato leaves are yellowing and dying off but I still have plenty of fruit which has been ripening daily. I used the Diggers seeds for the first time and have Tigerella & Tommy Toe Reds. They are in old steel caged plastic water tanks just over 1 meter squared. If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it as this is my first time at planting & want to maintain fruiting as long as I can. Thanks
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25 May 12, malcolm (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have the same trouble i donte know the answer but i have done some reaserch its lack of irion or to cold i have one tomatoe out of 4 plants with all plenty of fruit i have just saulfited iron for grass try that godd luck ps sorry about the spelling
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05 Feb 10, Lyndall lightbody (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi lyndall here again still serching for a particular reason my tomato flowers are falling off and not baring any fruit! It's not from too much water and they are very well drained??
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Showing 701 - 710 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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