Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries
14 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been growing tomatoes in pots at North Sydney for the last 10 years. Each year is more problematic and depressing than the previous even though I sterilise pots and use new potting mix each year. Plants start off very healthy then about the time that fruit set, the plants start yellowing from the bottom and within a few weeks they are history. This year was interesting in that I placed the pots on a second story balcony well away from previous plantings on the assumption that whatever was killing the plants near the ground may not exist on the balcony. I planted in September, great plants until mid November when they did the same thing - started yellowing from the bottom up and ended up basically dead after a few weeks. I took one of the plants (Mighty Red) which was dead except for one small leaf about 10mm above ground level. I cut the plant off completely immediately above this leaf and planted it in a new garden bed we have recently created in the area where we had previously used pots. For a couple of weeks nothing happened then the plant started growing and now in mid March we have just picked 3 large tomatoes off a very healthy (large) plant with another 15 or so tomatoes still on the plant. I still don't know what causes the problem but the experiment with this 'Lazarus' plant is nothing if not interesting.
Reply or Post a new comment
17 Mar 19, Gerrard Kavanagh (Australia - temperate climate)
Have harvested lots of good tomatoes including green ones yesterday. Most plants dried and look like they are dying back. However some appear to have started some healthy looking new growth. Do I pull them all out and get ready for peas or other nitrogen rich crop or see what happens with the new growth?
Reply or Post a new comment
20 Jan 19, Nick (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes in late January in sydney
Reply or Post a new comment
06 Mar 15, (Australia - temperate climate)
Yellowing leaves mean it is underfed which happens easier in pots. Feed with lots of compost and dynamic lifter. Use liquid fertiliser as well. A quick acting and compost and dynamic lifter will keep the plants going longer term
Reply or Post a new comment
25 Sep 14, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Do the smoke-tobacco carries a fungus disease .
Reply or Post a new comment
16 Aug 14, Matt (Australia - temperate climate)
Its to hot and humid in Sydney to grow tomatoes well in Dec /Jan Get your plants going early inside and grow from Aug to Nov then have a break then start again in Feb when temps just drop a little .Cherry tomatoes will do much better .All tomatoes don't like being moved so try and seed them where they will stay and don't water the foliage and smokers shouldn't touch the leaves or the plants at all they hate it.And the ones you neglect and that come up by themselves will always do better than the ones you put your heart into. They also need calcium (egg shells).Dont touch them!
Reply or Post a new comment
08 Aug 14, Don (Australia - temperate climate)
I live on the lower north shore in sydney and every year I plant my tomatoes and they start to flower in abundance as there a no bees here I go around with a small paint brush and try and pollinate them going from flower to flower but being as careful as I can doing this exercise ,I disturb them and they fall off and only a few make it to a tomato stage where am I going wrong a frustrated tomato grower.
Reply or Post a new comment
23 Jul 14, Sagala (Australia - temperate climate)
Watch out for bugs and pests as they can leave little holes in the tomatoes so be careful when picking
Reply or Post a new comment
12 Aug 11, Coogee (Australia - temperate climate)
To be honest, our water supply is polluted with high concentrations of fluoride. also, persistent con trails being sprayed over the city and coast are detrimental to the the health of the plants. Try using filtered water and keeping them out of the rain.
Reply or Post a new comment
15 Apr 11, leon (Australia - arid climate)
Hi i have been trying to find out earlyest date i can plant tomatoe seeds in perth western australia would it be after the shortest day of the year? I can bring them up on a window sill if its to cold just wondering about the sun longth.
Reply or Post a new comment
Showing 691 - 700 of 815 comments
See comments for all plants

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.