Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries
01 Sep 11, Nik in Melbourne (Australia - temperate climate)
Is is time to plant tomato seedlings out in the patch yet? Also, a patch I have does not get full sun till the middle of the summer. Should I delay planting tomatoes there?
Reply or Post a new comment
08 Oct 11, Tracey in Melbourne (Australia - temperate climate)
Basically from the start of October to early November is considered tomato planting time in Melbourne but exactly when to plant out your seedlings depends on the microclimate of your garden. If your veg plot is sheltered from cold wind and gets lots of sun, or you have raised beds (which warm up quicker than an in-ground garden), or you are growing your toms in large pots (again, warmer than in-ground beds), then you can get away with planting them now. I have a heavyish clay-based soil which tends to take a little longer to warm up, so will not be planting mine out until around the end of this month. As far as planting in less than full sun, the minimum recommendation for plants like tomatoes is usually given as 6 hours of sun a day, so your patch doesn't necessarily need to get sun from dawn to dusk. If it's currently getting 6 hours you can proceed as per usual. I have a spot in my garden that is shaded by a shed in winter/early spring, which I'll be using for a tomato plant this year. I'll pot up the tomato seedling destined for that spot (an early fruiting variety) into a bigger pot as necessary, and plant it out mid-November, by which time the space gets about 6 hours and the seedling will be a good size.
Reply or Post a new comment
27 Aug 11, Bill (Australia - temperate climate)
My dogs like to eat manure and blood and bone drives them nuts, so last year I used mushroom compost together with liquid fish fertiliser on the tomatoes. Had a staggeringly large crop.
Reply or Post a new comment
24 Aug 11, Moshe Ioh (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it possible to use mushroom compost (alkaline) with tomatoes (liking acidic soil)? Has anybody used this technique and what were the results?
Reply or Post a new comment
23 Aug 11, MICK (Australia - temperate climate)
DO YOU PRUNE GRAFTED TOMATOS THE SAME AS A NORMAL TOMATO
Reply or Post a new comment
24 Aug 11, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I don't prune tomatoes at all. Diggers Club did a comparison of pruned vs unpruned and found no difference in fruit production.
Reply or Post a new comment
13 Jun 11, Les Telfer (Australia - tropical climate)
My Tomatoes Flowered Then turn black and drop off ?
Reply or Post a new comment
02 May 11, Judy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
My tomatoes have been good but, because of all the rain, they've stopped changing colour. Should I just pull up the plants and let them ripen indoors?
Reply or Post a new comment
11 Apr 11, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can over feed your plants but that usually won't kill them. For the wilting, the reason being is either it is getting too much sun and not enough water or justis not in any sun at all and is being over watered. Tomatoes like part shade but most sun and that's what I have found that works best.
Reply or Post a new comment
19 Mar 11, THOMAS (Australia - temperate climate)
Forget the Triffids. Cherry tomatoes will engulf the world. Not one corner of my 3 acres has escaped being colonised this year & I only had them in my vegetable patch last year. Harvesting bucket loads & making sauce but have to beat the field mice to them. Thomas
Reply or Post a new comment
Showing 621 - 630 of 815 comments
See comments for all plants

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.