Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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19 Nov 11, Tricia (Australia - temperate climate)
Ive planted a variety of tomatoes this year and they all started flowering before they even got to 30 cm, I have left them and they are still growing and flowering, the early flowers have set and I have some really nice looking tomatoes already, I made my own compost and have side dressed them and I swear they have grown another 6 inches in a few days :)
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21 Nov 11, Beth (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks Tricia - that sounds promising. That's what I'd decided to do. They certainly love compost. And who wouldn't prefer home-made? Roll on delicious tomatoes!
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16 Oct 11, graham michelle (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Am wondering which is the best tomato plant to grow in glasshouse on the coast in southern new zealand
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15 Oct 11, jeffrey (USA - Zone 5a climate)
found a great calendar all about tomato it is from the butte county Master Gardener program they have a great calendar out all about tomato i picked one up last week at an event you should check it out
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04 Oct 11, justina (Australia - temperate climate)
This is the first time I'm planting tomatoes. How frequent do I fertilize the plant. i'm using instsnt-gro. the container said 2- 3 months.
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31 Oct 11, Digger Dave (Australia - temperate climate)
Every year I plant a tomato plant in August (cover from frost), then plant a couple in October, I fertilize when I plant them with blood and bone and then again every two months, Last year the eary plant grew over nine feet tall and I had tomatos before christmas
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18 Nov 11, ian (Australia - arid climate)
i always fertiilze every 10 to 12 days as you will always good growth and a healthy plant will always bear goood fruit or veg's
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26 Sep 11, Lisa (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
When it says potatoes and tomatoes shouldn't be planted together does that just mean same bed? or same time? completely new to gardening thanks
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18 Nov 11, ian Mckay (Australia - temperate climate)
no don't plant after one after the other always leave a years between as you may end up with namato's, i always leave a year or somethimes two between planting either between planting of either of them.
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26 Sep 11, Liz (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Lisa, it means that they should not be planted in the same bed.
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Showing 611 - 620 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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