Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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21 Feb 18, Gaurav (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Hi Francie, I am not sure of the variety though I've seen something in Bunnings couple of months ago and that was specific to tomatoes. May be worth going/asking there? Not sure if this is of any help though. Good luck! Regards, Gaurav
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27 Jan 18, Greg (Australia - temperate climate)
Blossom end rot; is it potassium or calcium deficiency. I have applied two doses to the soil and watered in but my Apollo tomatoes look to be developing it. Thank you for any help.
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30 Jan 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It is Magnesium deficiency. A suggestion is to put two teaspoons in the bottom of the hole when you transplant. Mix it into the soil. Or apply some around the base of the plant (two feet diameter) and water it in.
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30 Jan 18, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Apply epsom salts
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22 Dec 17, Richard Masina (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
How many kinds of tomatoes
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19 Nov 17, Chris M (Australia - temperate climate)
With some arrays of flowers on my tomato plants there is a single large flower. Why is there one large flower? Would be very grateful for a reply,
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19 Nov 17, Pauline (Australia - temperate climate)
A older person told me to cut a tomatoe into 4 and plant I have never done this before so I did and wow 15 plants and the. Plants are unreal
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20 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
From a crop (3-4 plants) of tomatoes ( I mainly grow Cherry) a lot fall on the ground - grub holes etc. In a few weeks/months time heaps of seedling come up. I just transplant them. I can grow tomatoes all year round.
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20 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Another method is to just cut slices and place them in the soil and cover them over. Or just take a tomato or a few if small and squash them up in a tray of water - in a few days they will ferment - leave for a few days. Then plant the seeds or separate the seeds and dry them out and keep for later on.
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14 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have read that you can pinch out the laterals (the new shot where the leaf joins the stem) of tomatoes and put that in water and start a new plant. Maybe try that. Can only give it a go or buy some seeds from :The seed collection company" - out of stock at the moment. 200 seeds for $1 + postage.
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Showing 271 - 280 of 807 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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