Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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24 Mar 18, Maree (Australia - temperate climate)
Can I grow tomatoes in adelaide in winter
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17 Mar 18, jaheda (Australia - temperate climate)
my aunt rubys german green tomato has been producing a lot of fruit. one of the branches had a slight tear because of too many tomatoes. what should i do?
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18 Mar 18, Mike (Australia - tropical climate)
Put a stake in near the hand of tomatoes and tie it to the stake to support it.
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08 Mar 18, Martin (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Australia, a tomato plant poped out of the ground I live in Albion Park N S W The plant is loaded so I need to fertalze and what with. Plant age 2 months Thank you martin
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09 Mar 18, Hamsa (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
We get chicken manure from a farm and we soak about 1 cup of manure to 1 litre water in proportion for a couple of days and use the liquid to water the tomato plants. You can keep adding more water to the manure. We did this on a regular basis, weekly and had a bumper crop
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09 Mar 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Most of its early growth has happened so it doesn't require a lot of fertiliser. If you give it a lot of Nitrogen it will produce a lot of leaf and growth. It is requiring Potassium now for fruit production. So buy a fertiliser that isn't too high in N. What kind of tomato is it.
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08 Mar 18, Dan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I have about 8-10 cherry tomato plants this year and they have grown tall. Have even special color tomato. We live in cold part of Australia (Melbourne) so frost will always be there. What will happen during the winter (ie they are going to die and I have to buy another tomato plants)? Is there anyway I can help them to survive and replant them next year ?(by bring them indoor). Is there any technique to move tomato plant from outdoor to indoor? (They are very tall, and not sure I can accomodate the size) Thanks in advance
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09 Mar 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What you do is keep some of the tomatoes when they are really ripe - seeds from the different colored tomatoes. Put the tomatoes in a bowl and mash them up - take the flesh out and just have the seeds left. Put the seeds in a container and put some water in it to cover them. They will ferment - have a white fungi scum on the top. After about 5-6 days wash the white stuff off and then place the seeds on some paper towel to dry for a week. Place the seeds in a sealable bag and put in a jar with a lid and tighten it - then put in the fridge until next spring. Tomatoes are easy to germinate and grow. Tomatoes are usually a 6-8 mth crop and then removed. Won't really grow inside - need sunlight.
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15 Feb 18, francie hancock (New Zealand - temperate climate)
what tomato do people recommend for cooler climate please
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24 Feb 18, Wendy (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
We grow short season tomatoes successfully, like Early Girl.
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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