Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries
12 Feb 21, Colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
You can grow any tomato your heart desires in your zone! Do you like great big beefy slicing tomatoes? Little cherry tomatoes to eat like snacks? Plum tomatoes to make into sauce or sun-dry? All will do great. You may need to use shade cloth in the hottest months to keep them from scorching (I get 40 percent shade cloth from San Diego Seed Company but Amazon has lots of cheaper ones too). If you try to keep them alive through winter, assuming they don't have blight, you can string incandescent Christmas lights around them and cover with fleece if frost threatens. Indeterminate types are basically perennials and will get huge and possibly survive the winter in your zone, so space may be an issue. I usually have ONE big indeterminate sprawler like a Juliet or a Sungold, and let grow as big as it wants on a tower made of cattle panels, and then grow a number of compact bush tomatoes to get some varied crops for slicing, drying, saucing, etc. In your zone you can constantly start new
Reply or Post a new comment
24 Nov 20, Max (USA - Zone 10b climate)
My tomato plants in zone 10b (Los Angeles, CA) still continue to develop new flowers and grow a lot of new fruit. It seems like it is recommended to remove the plants at the end of the growing season... but how do I know when that is?
Reply or Post a new comment
26 Nov 20, Anonymous (USA - Zone 9b climate)
It is probably an indeterminate variety (will keep growing), they can keep growing if you fertilise and water them. Determinate varieties only grow so high and most of the tomatoes ripen at the same time. Depending on what your seasons are like you could keep growing it. Or if you have produced a good crop and need the ground for another crop soon pull it out and ready the ground for the next crop or season.
Reply or Post a new comment
22 Oct 20, Gerald Swanson (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Can you grow tomatoes in the winter (Zone 10a)? Are there certain varieties better suited for winter months here?
Reply or Post a new comment
23 Oct 20, colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
I believe I used to live in zone 10a when I lived in Los Angeles (Van Nuys). I *did* manage to grow some tomatoes over winter a couple of times, though I'm not sure it was worth it.
Reply or Post a new comment
26 Oct 20, (USA - Zone 10a climate)
It wasn't worth it because you planted out of season. By the planting guide - plant late winter early spring for a summer crop.
Reply or Post a new comment
26 Oct 20, colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
There was more to my reply, recommending varieties (esp Glacier) and alternative approaches, but I'm not sure what happened to it. Maybe I wrote too much info. (Gardenate : Part of the last sentence was missing in your previous reply)
Reply or Post a new comment
02 Oct 20, Ray Golimo (USA - Zone 10a climate)
When is the best time to grow tomatoes in zone 10A?
Reply or Post a new comment
06 Sep 20, Lou (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Is the July and August direct sun to much for tomato plants? My plants get to about 12 inches high then the leaves begin to shrivel up. Thanks, Lou
Reply or Post a new comment
09 Sep 20, Anonymous (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Tomatoes need to be planted deep and then watered deep. A really good watering 3-4 times a week. If your climate is really hot and or dry then maybe plant a bit earlier to avoid the hottest part of summer.
Reply or Post a new comment
Showing 51 - 60 of 92 comments
See comments for all plants

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.