Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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08 Apr 22, Anonymous (USA - Zone 4a climate)
Check the planting guide here for the zone you live in
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15 Mar 22, Sue Di Giacomo (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Does it help to run a misting system during the heat of Florida summertime or would that do more harm than good; ie risk burning the leaves or inviting diseases etc.
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17 Mar 22, Kylee (USA - Zone 5b climate)
my understanding is that keeping the leaves wet may make the plant more susceptible to disease and fungal issues, so its probably best to only water the base of the plant. Just make sure to give your tomatoes some shade throughout the day and i think they'll be alright
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03 Feb 22, Steven Winner (USA - Zone 9b climate)
What are the best Beef Stake Tomatoes that grow well in Zone 9b?
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24 Feb 22, Cynthia M. (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I live in The IE, zone 9B, and Kelloggs Breakfast tomatoes do really well for me here. All of the warm season veggies I grow in full sun, I put up sun clothe over the top of the beds, once it starts staying in the 90's F.
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11 Feb 22, Theresa (USA - Zone 8a climate)
Im in 8A and my fall tomatoes did nothing I planted only 6, different varieties , no one tomato, Too HOT. the blooms just fried and fell off. My neighbor planted under a big shade tree, and earlier, had beautiful tomatoes, hope that helps.
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27 Aug 21, Anthony Jennings (USA - Zone 13b climate)
Last year I planted cherry tomatoes from seedlings in January. I saved some seeds. When and how should I plant the seeds to develop seedlings for the coming year and how do I plant the seeds?
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01 Sep 21, (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Plant in a fine potting mix or similar soil (light and free draining) or a mixture of soil and potting mix about 1/4
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09 Aug 21, Lonnie quick (USA - Zone 9a climate)
Plants are growing great but not too many tomatoes are setting. Any ideas? it has been a 100 degrees (37C) almost every day. I water every day with drip about 1 1/2 gallons per plant thank you
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13 Aug 21, Martha (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Hi Lonnie, Tomatoes really don't set fruit above 85 degrees or so. If you keep it going though it should start to produce for you this fall.
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Showing 31 - 40 of 92 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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