Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 Jun 21, (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Can you recommend some determined tomato that can be grown in zone 9. Thanks.
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28 May 21, Josef (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Hello, i read that i can plant tomatoes until the end of mai but most people say that i need to transplant my tomatoes until march. I bought 8 tomatoe plants (1 determined, 3 cherry tomatoes, 4 beefstake or normal sized tomatoes) will the produce any tomatoes? And if not should i try to keep them alive for the fall season (by putting them in the shade or my garage or inside my home)?
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01 Jun 21, Anthony (USA - Zone 9a climate)
Josef, Tomatoes in 9a or 9b can almost be grown every month, but tomatoes die if there is a frost, and stop growing/producing if the temperature is above 95F. Since this the beginning of summer, it is not advisable to plant tomatoes until after the heat of summer. If you have young tomatoes planted try and shade them, or keep them healthy so they can resume growing after the summer heat has passed.
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06 Mar 21, Abby (USA - Zone 10a climate)
My tomato plants are ready to go into raised bed. But the temperature drops to mid 40s at night. Is it okay to plant them out yet. Thanks
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09 Mar 21, Anonymous (USA - Zone 10b climate)
Tomato plants can handle night temps in the mid 40s but you should harden them off a bit if they're used to a hothouse. If you want to baby them so they'll grow a bit faster, consider covering them at night with horticultural fleece, though you shouldn't actually *need* to unless frost threatens or the night is forecast to be very windy.
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08 Mar 21, (USA - Zone 4b climate)
I would wait until it warms up more - more like in the 50's
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26 Feb 21, Jean-Claude (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I transplanted my tomatoes a week ago and I notice today that a few of them are already showing signs of flowering. The plants are still relatively small. Should I pinch off these very early buds.I am sure there are experienced gardeners out there who know what to do. Please advise.
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01 Mar 21, Anonymous (USA - Zone 6a climate)
They have been in a pot where the nutrients have nearly run out so the plant is trying to reproduce its self, by going to seed. Make sure you have good rich soil. You need to prepare the soil well before planting out.
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08 Feb 21, Joe Musselwhite (USA - Zone 10a climate)
What type tomatoes are best or grow area 10a and should they be determinate or indeterminate?
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13 Feb 21, SarahM (USA - Zone 10b climate)
In 10b here. You can grow either. Determinate only grow to size, produce fruit then die off. You would grow them in succession to get get tomatoes all season. Indeterminate tomatoes require space as the plants just keeps growing [kinda like a vine] while we have long days of sunlight. Better to decide what type of tomato fruit you want [paste, slicer, etc...].
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Showing 41 - 50 of 92 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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