Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

24 Jan 09, Domenic (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi i have plenty of tomato's this season but im just noticed alot of my tomatos have been eaten away by some pest it looks like a tiny tiny white fly they have been there for months.They make a small drill hole into my tomato's.And also, the bottom of my tomato's are black its very strange.Never have i seen this in my garden before. i have been using calf manure for some time.These little pests are now eating my peppers and my basil but not my cucumbers and zucchini .Could somebody help??
01 Jan 09, sally (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes if i plant them in the next day or two? planting would be approx 3rd Jan 09
12 Dec 08, Liz (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Whoops, but the same comments apply to a pot, Tony :)
11 Dec 08, Anthony Robert Dawson (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Errrm what bag? I am in a pot :)
11 Dec 08, Tony Dawson (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing a tomato plant in a large black plastic pot. I have used a specific tomato potting mix and initially was watering every day. Although there are quite a few tomatoes most of the bottom 2/3 of the plant has yellow leaves. Is there any way of saving the plant to allow the tomatoes to ripen?
04 Dec 08, Perry (Australia - temperate climate)
I found some biological insecticide among my crops in the form of a few small web spinning spiders which are thriving in the warmer weather.
03 Dec 08, Perry (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Rosie, I am only into my third crop of tomatoes ever. I seemed to have lucked on the ideal growing conditions. I am trying to be as organic as possible.You may find pics of pests at the google image search box, and remedies in google search. There's a short list of some villians in my Nov 14 post above, from Wikipedia. My crop is wilting a little in its first 30+ temps this week. Storms to follow, maybe.
29 Nov 08, Rosie (Australia - temperate climate)
Perry someone suggested the little moths were actually 'white fly' and should be sprayed with oil or a soap based spray as they can get quite bad. However, i google them and I don't think they are my visitors. They are probably tomotoe moth (potatoe moth) - and they didn't sound like they would be helpful towards my tomotoes either. BUT when I went out again they were gone! They were only a few around - so maybe they are seasonal and don't hang around for long. They seem to have done any damage...
29 Nov 08, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
I have four tomato plants in Sydney. Small holes are appearig on the green fruit. Also some leaves are turning yellow (lower leaves) What should i use for the small hole pest.
29 Nov 08, Peter (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Green fruit is being holed 2-3 mil holes also foliage on some plants turning yellow. What do I treat the plants with?
Showing 561 - 570 of 602 comments

More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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