Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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17 Sep 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Re the tip on 13 Aug re "savagely clipping" the tomatoes: When tomato bushes are more or less fully grown, flowering and/or bearing fruit, continually prune the bushes, by about 10 - 20% every week (just enough so the pruning matches the regrowth). Prune from the "inside out" ie remove most of the material from the middle of the bush. This opens it out, lets air circulate, reduces wind damage, discourages pests and diseases, and encourages fruiting. Avoid pruning stems which are flowering - they will produce fruit later. PS I forgot to add to my tip about letting fruit drop and self sow for next season - once the seedlings appear, transplant them. Having tomato crops in the same place each year will attract nematodes. (if you do get nematodes, a solution of molasses and water into the soil will often remove them - the molasses slurps them up).
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15 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanxs for the reply David. I haven't tried the boiling method yet but was going to try is as a option. Might try the topsy turvy upside down method for a bit of fun!
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10 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
HBP: I would think pouring boiling water would kill everything GOOD & BAD. There are microorganisms that convert humus into plant food and you have just killed them :( I wonder if this is the problem???
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09 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Has anyone heard of pouring boiling hot water in the area that is allocated for tomatoes, wait till it cools then plant your tomatoes to kill dieseases in the soil.? I never have any luck!
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05 Sep 09, Kate (Australia - temperate climate)
We have had cherry tomato plant self seed in the garden bed next to our worm farm. It is producing a lot of fruit but quite a lot of the the fruit is ripening when the tomatoes are still tiny (pea sized). Any thoughts on why this might be? I am a novice gardener without the greenest thumb - I should be happy that we're getting any fruit at all! :D
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04 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
John, can you give more details on the "savage clip" please.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Another tip - split or half eaten tomatoes on the bush - just let them drop. Next year you will automatically have self sown seedlings.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Grown tomatoes for years. Last summer pruned / clipped quite savagely. Results amazing. 5 times the fruit and the more I trimmed the more fruit I got.
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09 Aug 09, margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Dandenong ranges, victoria, I am inspired to raise seedlings of tomato rather than plant out seedlings from the nursery. It is August now, so, is this the time to plant the seeds for transplanting to garden in late September early October?
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08 Aug 09, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm ready to start my first vegie patch with beetroot, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes (applying companion gardening). Can anyone suggest a really good tomato? These so many varieties all boosting to be the best. Thanks!
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More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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