Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

01 Nov 21, John Ellis (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Tomatoes grew well last season until whitefly arrived. I found that Pyrethrum spray only reduced the numbers for a week or two and then it was basically ineffective. Suggestions as to effective control?
04 Nov 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I basically only grow cherry tomatoes, they are fairly disease resistant. Bigger tomatoes the fly and grubs just feed on them especially when the warmer wet weather comes.
03 Sep 21, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
I have just planted some bush beans, can someone tell me approx how high they grow? Cheers and thnks in advance
07 Sep 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A question about beans in the tomato section. Beans (dwarf) about 300-400mm. Bush tomatoes 1m.
27 Aug 21, Anthony Jennings (USA - Zone 13b climate)
Last year I planted cherry tomatoes from seedlings in January. I saved some seeds. When and how should I plant the seeds to develop seedlings for the coming year and how do I plant the seeds?
01 Sep 21, (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Plant in a fine potting mix or similar soil (light and free draining) or a mixture of soil and potting mix about 1/4
09 Aug 21, Lonnie quick (USA - Zone 9a climate)
Plants are growing great but not too many tomatoes are setting. Any ideas? it has been a 100 degrees (37C) almost every day. I water every day with drip about 1 1/2 gallons per plant thank you
13 Aug 21, Martha (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Hi Lonnie, Tomatoes really don't set fruit above 85 degrees or so. If you keep it going though it should start to produce for you this fall.
19 Jul 21, Jan Shearer-Paulson (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Can you please recommend a tomato variety which will grow, in-spite of cool nights (WANAKA)
18 Aug 21, Philip Wills (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Maybe Baxter's Early or Russian Red
Showing 81 - 90 of 807 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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