Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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07 Apr 09, Annie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi everyone, great site! I have about 15 cherry tomato plants that have self-seeded in amongst other veges. They currently have lots of green tomatoes. Have read previous tips about ripening them and will try that, but was wondering if they are any good green if they don't ripen?
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04 Apr 09, joe (Australia - temperate climate)
hi folks, i heard that removing some leaves from the tomato tree will help produce a better crop! which leaves do we clip off - right at the top ? anyone know?regards and thanx.
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18 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Ken. Tomatos ripen with temperature, I notice you are temperate zone so you should still get enough warm days to ripen the tomatos. If the green tomatos are starting to blush at the base then you can pick and ripen on the window sill. Bananas help ripen fruit (bananas release ethelene gas) so bagging tomato with banana may help
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18 Mar 09, Ken (Australia - temperate climate)
I have large bushy tomato plants that have some green tomatoes slow to ripen. I am quite keen to re-plant the beds with autumn plantings. Can I expect that these plants will still produce red fruit this late in the season or are they likely to remain green?
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12 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Kiah: Bad things happen if you grow Tomatoes in the same place year on year. Better to take them out, compost them, and make a new bed for next season.
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11 Mar 09, Kiah (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi was wondering if when tomatoes have finished producing fruit, is it best to leave the plant in the ground for the next season or take it out and start again
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20 Feb 09, Gary Zeng (Australia - temperate climate)
when it is very hot, the roots in the pot might burn by high temperature, get the plant out and put into soil. or you can shield you pot from sunshine to cool down the root.
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02 Feb 09, Nicole (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Geoff and Domenic, I had perfectly healthy looking tomatoes before the heatwave and now have the same problem, most have developed brown lesions on the base. After googling I think it's blossom end rot caused by water stress from the heat. Can't post a link, but try googling Tomato Problem Solver to see pics.
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02 Feb 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Geof, could be "blossom end rot" to fix add Calcium Reference Look at ABC gardening videos, December 2008, see Johns Plot Part 1-3 about 8:15 into the video
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01 Feb 09, Domenic (Australia - temperate climate)
To Geoff i seen to have the same problem not to sure what it is im living in Melbourne.All my tomato's are gone those 3 days of 40+ degree killed everything it looks like a nuclear bomb has hit them ill love to post the pictures.
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Showing 751 - 760 of 811 comments
See comments for all plants

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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