Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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17 Sep 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Re the tip on 13 Aug re "savagely clipping" the tomatoes: When tomato bushes are more or less fully grown, flowering and/or bearing fruit, continually prune the bushes, by about 10 - 20% every week (just enough so the pruning matches the regrowth). Prune from the "inside out" ie remove most of the material from the middle of the bush. This opens it out, lets air circulate, reduces wind damage, discourages pests and diseases, and encourages fruiting. Avoid pruning stems which are flowering - they will produce fruit later. PS I forgot to add to my tip about letting fruit drop and self sow for next season - once the seedlings appear, transplant them. Having tomato crops in the same place each year will attract nematodes. (if you do get nematodes, a solution of molasses and water into the soil will often remove them - the molasses slurps them up).
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15 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanxs for the reply David. I haven't tried the boiling method yet but was going to try is as a option. Might try the topsy turvy upside down method for a bit of fun!
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10 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
HBP: I would think pouring boiling water would kill everything GOOD & BAD. There are microorganisms that convert humus into plant food and you have just killed them :( I wonder if this is the problem???
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09 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Has anyone heard of pouring boiling hot water in the area that is allocated for tomatoes, wait till it cools then plant your tomatoes to kill dieseases in the soil.? I never have any luck!
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05 Sep 09, Kate (Australia - temperate climate)
We have had cherry tomato plant self seed in the garden bed next to our worm farm. It is producing a lot of fruit but quite a lot of the the fruit is ripening when the tomatoes are still tiny (pea sized). Any thoughts on why this might be? I am a novice gardener without the greenest thumb - I should be happy that we're getting any fruit at all! :D
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04 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
John, can you give more details on the "savage clip" please.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Another tip - split or half eaten tomatoes on the bush - just let them drop. Next year you will automatically have self sown seedlings.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Grown tomatoes for years. Last summer pruned / clipped quite savagely. Results amazing. 5 times the fruit and the more I trimmed the more fruit I got.
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09 Aug 09, margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Dandenong ranges, victoria, I am inspired to raise seedlings of tomato rather than plant out seedlings from the nursery. It is August now, so, is this the time to plant the seeds for transplanting to garden in late September early October?
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08 Aug 09, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm ready to start my first vegie patch with beetroot, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes (applying companion gardening). Can anyone suggest a really good tomato? These so many varieties all boosting to be the best. Thanks!
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Showing 731 - 740 of 811 comments
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Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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