Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

25 Sep 14, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Do the smoke-tobacco carries a fungus disease .
16 Aug 14, Matt (Australia - temperate climate)
Its to hot and humid in Sydney to grow tomatoes well in Dec /Jan Get your plants going early inside and grow from Aug to Nov then have a break then start again in Feb when temps just drop a little .Cherry tomatoes will do much better .All tomatoes don't like being moved so try and seed them where they will stay and don't water the foliage and smokers shouldn't touch the leaves or the plants at all they hate it.And the ones you neglect and that come up by themselves will always do better than the ones you put your heart into. They also need calcium (egg shells).Dont touch them!
08 Aug 14, Don (Australia - temperate climate)
I live on the lower north shore in sydney and every year I plant my tomatoes and they start to flower in abundance as there a no bees here I go around with a small paint brush and try and pollinate them going from flower to flower but being as careful as I can doing this exercise ,I disturb them and they fall off and only a few make it to a tomato stage where am I going wrong a frustrated tomato grower.
23 Jul 14, Sagala (Australia - temperate climate)
Watch out for bugs and pests as they can leave little holes in the tomatoes so be careful when picking
12 Aug 11, Coogee (Australia - temperate climate)
To be honest, our water supply is polluted with high concentrations of fluoride. also, persistent con trails being sprayed over the city and coast are detrimental to the the health of the plants. Try using filtered water and keeping them out of the rain.
15 Apr 11, leon (Australia - arid climate)
Hi i have been trying to find out earlyest date i can plant tomatoe seeds in perth western australia would it be after the shortest day of the year? I can bring them up on a window sill if its to cold just wondering about the sun longth.
11 Mar 10, Simi (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I had that same problem from a few weeks all that rain we had.. sorted itself out now just make sure good drainage and have a look at how much you are watering. To much and they will split.
08 Mar 10, Sim (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Marion, it's due to either too much watering or irregular watering. Tomatoes will split when they absorbed too much water than the skin can expand. Try reducing amount of watering but keep the frequency of watering. Can't do much about the tomatoes already split.
07 Mar 10, Marion (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some yellow pear tomatoes the bush is huge and has plenty of tomates on however they are splitting, can anyone tell me why?
15 Jun 10, Michele -- Tassy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hiya Marion ... Had the same problem, pretty much lost the "final" harvest theis year from splitting. When you water do so at soil level therefore watering the roots keeping the fruit and foliage dry. Fruits split when they get wet and are then exposed to the sun. Cheers
Showing 691 - 700 of 811 comments

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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