Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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11 Jul 10, Michele (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi, We planted small roma tomatoes about 4 weeks ago. The plants are thriving and heaps of flowers, but the flowers do not seem to be turning into tomatoes? Could it be over fertilisation? Really interested to hear your ideas. Thanks
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28 Aug 10, Andrew (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It most likely will be short day-length - plants need enough energy to convert into flower and fruit production, and in winter there is simply not enough daylight in a day to do this. You should find that by October they will be forming fruit...
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05 Aug 10, Bek (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi. I'm not an expert gardener but maybe the flowers aren't being pollinated? You might need to get out into the garden and give the flowers a good shake. There are some very helpful you tube clips showing when the flowers are ready. HTH.
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08 Jul 10, Margaret (Australia - tropical climate)
Hi, everyone. We've got a beautiful crop of tomatoes this year, with varieties including Rouge De Marmand, Tropic and a black variety I can't remember the name of. My problem is fruit fly (specifically, QLD fruit fly). Is there any way of eradicating this horribe pest? I've done some searching online which suggested fly traps may be beneficial but not much else. Help!
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10 Sep 10, Neil (Australia - temperate climate)
Try a physical barrier, like exclusion bags, to keep the fruit fly off your tomatoes. I got some from Greeen Harvest last year, and they made a huge difference to the amount of fruit that survived.
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05 Aug 10, holly (Australia - tropical climate)
Hello i live in QLD myself and a good cheap alternative to fruit fly traps is cheap sweet white wine -the cheaper, the better. Just grab an empty plastic bottle cut some small holes (5c coin size) near the top, string it up close to the plant (on the tomato stakes is preferable) and throw out when it's full. The flies love the smell of the wine and end up drowing in it. I've tried it with red wine but white seems to get better results. hope this helps:)
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15 May 10, bill (Australia - tropical climate)
My tomato plants are just starting to bare fruit, but now the leaves are turning black on the ends and dying off. What should do.
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23 May 10, (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
It could be a fungal problem. I would take a couple of leaves into your local nursery/garden shop to show them.
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26 Apr 10, Robert (Australia - tropical climate)
I have one long garden bed (6m x 1.5m) this year just set aside to grow tomatos. I have planted a variety of types, common to all nurseries. This year half of my plants have taken (part shaded end of the bed) and started to grow while the other half (full sun) last about 1 week before all the leaves wilt and the plant dies (Surprisingly quickly). I have just tested and adjusted the PH as I found that it was a little low, but not drastically, in the sunny end of the bed. I don’t know why my plants keep dying but I can’t keep replacing them. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing my plants to die? The only think that is growing in the same bed, surprisingly well, are the basil and marigold plants. I grew tomato’s quite successfully last year but in a different position in the garden.
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06 Jun 10, Ken (Australia - tropical climate)
I have had this problem, and was told it was nematodes. I am now going to grow them in pots, in the dry and see how they go in the wet. I am 220 km down the track from Darwin. Good luck
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Showing 671 - 680 of 819 comments
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More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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