Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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13 Nov 10, (Australia - tropical climate)
will a tomato plant produce more than one crop?
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28 Jul 11, Carolyn (Australia - temperate climate)
It's true that tomatos are an annual but there IS a way to get"follow on" or late crops from a particular plant. . . take cuttings ("tip" or even better "heal" cuttings"take" eazily) The new plants will be genetically identical to the parent plant & will crop in 1/3 the time a seedling would. Best of all you can save a favorite (or a dozen if you wish) by overwintering in pots
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13 Nov 10, Sri (Australia - temperate climate)
Tomatoes are an annual so they grow then flower then they start to produce fruit and as long as you keep the water up to them and feed them regularly they should continue to flower and fruit for 4 to 6 months but when they are finished they dont usually bounce back the plant is spent. However small salad tomatoes (tiny tims,cherry tomatoes) have been known to flower and fruit again.
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18 Sep 10, (Australia - arid climate)
Hi collegues, Do you know any USA quarantine insect pests of tomato? Looking forward to getting your ideas Theo
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05 Aug 10, Garry (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Look up 'Poisonous Plants' on wikipedia, there is a good list there. Tomatoes and potatoes are part of the nightshade family, which means any green bits are toxic. Brassicas would be a good choice, all sorts of fancy lettuce and chinese cabbage you could try and the seeds are usually cheap and easy to grow. (My amateur 2c)
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05 Aug 10, ajp (Australia - temperate climate)
Am trying to help set up a veggie/herb plot at my daughters child care centre but we have a problem. Tomato leaves (and potato) are posionus so will not be able to plant as children will have access to the garden at alll times. I know that a lot of veggies have poisonus parts but cant seem to find a list of them anywhere. Does anyone have any ides?
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11 Jul 10, Michele (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi, We planted small roma tomatoes about 4 weeks ago. The plants are thriving and heaps of flowers, but the flowers do not seem to be turning into tomatoes? Could it be over fertilisation? Really interested to hear your ideas. Thanks
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28 Aug 10, Andrew (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It most likely will be short day-length - plants need enough energy to convert into flower and fruit production, and in winter there is simply not enough daylight in a day to do this. You should find that by October they will be forming fruit...
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05 Aug 10, Bek (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi. I'm not an expert gardener but maybe the flowers aren't being pollinated? You might need to get out into the garden and give the flowers a good shake. There are some very helpful you tube clips showing when the flowers are ready. HTH.
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08 Jul 10, Margaret (Australia - tropical climate)
Hi, everyone. We've got a beautiful crop of tomatoes this year, with varieties including Rouge De Marmand, Tropic and a black variety I can't remember the name of. My problem is fruit fly (specifically, QLD fruit fly). Is there any way of eradicating this horribe pest? I've done some searching online which suggested fly traps may be beneficial but not much else. Help!
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Showing 661 - 670 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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