Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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18 May 12, Jim (Australia - temperate climate)
Am keen to further explore the issue of stressing the plant to bring on flowers. Can you stress the plant to a point of no return and have the whole plant die. Any other side effects
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17 May 12, Shaun (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Alternatively, you could ditch all the chemical fertilisers and just dig some wilted comfrey leaves into your soil and the tomatoes will sing an organic tune all the way to your table. That's all I use and I'm still harvesting now, 8 months after the first flush of fruit appeared.
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27 Jan 11, Maria (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
i have beautiful tomatoe plants growing with no tomatoes on them. In the early stages, they had a number of flowers on them but they have dissapeared. What have I done wrong?
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25 Jan 11, Colin (Australia - temperate climate)
I have noticed two changes in my tomato crop this year. 1. The fruit is very slow to ripen, and 2. The birds attack the fruit as soon as it shows some colour. I've never had birds eat my tomatoes before. Has anyone else noticed this?
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04 Apr 11, Sarah (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
April has started now and I"ve just picked one ripe fruit. Am I waiting for nothing? Will they ever ripen. I've got 100's of green tomatoes. I also noticed one of my plants is still flowering.
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13 Feb 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
my tomatos ripened very slowly too, but they eventually got there. I only just started harvesting them a week ago. I have not had problems with birds.
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03 Feb 11, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I had the same issue issue last year and a friend suggested hanging yellow and red christmas baubles on the vines before it starts fruiting. Birds will go for these first without success and, hopefully, leave your ripening tomatos alone. That's my plan for this year, anyway.
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04 Feb 11, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'll try that on my plum trees next year!
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14 Jan 11, kate (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am no expert, but I read somewhere that you can put banana skin under the mulch or in the soil and the potassium helps with flower production. I tried this and also made a tea of banana skins which I apply (diluted) weekly. It seems to work! There are lots of flowers and fruit even though we have had a very slow start to summer here.
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08 Jan 11, Lou (Australia - temperate climate)
Someone told me they know of a tomato plant that's been growing fruit for 10 years.......
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Showing 641 - 650 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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