Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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30 Jan 12, stella (Australia - temperate climate)
i amm growing gross lisse variety of tomatoes they are pretty huge on the vines but none of them are ripening as of yet ..what should i do theplants are a fairly average size with los of leaves and flowers and unripe fruits..
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30 Jan 12, Reg Parker (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Stella, Your fruit will ripen, however I strongly suggest that you rid your plants of ALL LEAVES except the for the top (3), you will notice that you have a flowering stem, then a leaf stem then a flowering, get rid of all non flowering stems, you will do yourself and your vines a great favour....leaves only pull the nutrients away from the fruit, block sunlight & air circulation , create disease and attract pests. Also use a liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a week, you will have sweeter, juicier fruit and more than you can possibly even give away. DON'T BE AFRAID TO STRIP THOSE LEAVES> Reg
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13 Feb 12, (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks very much for your advice I have been harvesting juicy red tomatoes now!!!
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16 Jan 12, Irene (Australia - temperate climate)
Planted Apollo Tomatoes Improved: They were fruiting beautifully until today I saw what looks like teeny blemishes, tiny dints like pin pricks coming on them...they are still unripe and more are coming what can I do to save the crop or is this a normal part of the process. By the way we have had a lot of rain but the drainage is fine. Thank you
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15 Sep 13, Jessica Vivien (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Irene, I'm in Perth, I had this problem a couple of years ago, and the culprits were green shield bugs. I could not find a suitable treatment apart from picking these off by hand. They wrecked most of my tomatoes except the cherries and a Roma. Part of the problem was that I was growing them in a spot well sheltered from wind, and too close together I think, which provided perfect conditions for the beetles. I have now build an enclosed vegetable garden covered with quarter inch netting, which keeps out the adult beetles so they cannot lay eggs around this area, and the babies would have to walk a very long way to get in. My enclosed garden also keeps out cabbage butterfly, parrots, possums, rats, bandicoots, large snails. I still have to contend with slugs and slaters though.
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21 Jan 12, Bec (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sounds like fruit fly. Try hanging some fruit fly traps around and yellow sticky traps. Had this problem last year but since hanging up a eco-lure no problems this season.
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04 Jan 12, Matt (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi all. I live in Melbourne in ringwood and had to rip out two tomato plants, a mighty red and an, appollo, was disappointing since they had fruit already on them, they seemed fine until the leaves and stalk started to wilt the leaves also began to turn yellow, any ideas what happened to them? Cheers
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04 Jan 12, Dianne (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to put more tomato plants in the garden
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06 Jan 12, Miguel (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Dianne, I've grown tomatoes as late as December, shortly before Christmas. I've had success but got only a small handful of tomatoes. They ripened on the windowsill as there was not enough sunlight or time to vine rippen them and some tasted a little bland. So in answer to your question, you can plant tomatoes now but don't expect them to give you more than 2-3 green tomatoes each plant.
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31 Jan 12, tim (Australia - temperate climate)
try tommy toe. i have grown them from february and picked full flavoured fruit through to end of june in southern riverina in frost free years.
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Showing 591 - 600 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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