Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 Jan 13, Sally (Australia - arid climate)
I have tomato plants in they were flowering but then the flowers seemed to be falling off. I have them mulched and keep the water up to them. It is in the high 40s here at the moment and I have shade over them. I also have apple cucumbers in they are flowering prolifically but no fruit. 5 Capsicum plants only one with fruit and one chilly no flowers they are growing well can you please tell me what to do with them all.
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14 Jul 13, Gary (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Sally have a look at magnesium deficiency on you tube also look into epsom salts on youtube. Hope this helps
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17 Feb 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, we've had some terribly hot weather here in Perth and a lot of my veggies quit producing....or died....no matter how much water they got. Some are recovering...starting to get cucumbers and tomatoes again - although a few of each didn't make it...half the beans died...the rest showed no signs of recovering, as in blooming, so ripped them out and starting all over....the other veggies look to be on the mend...Once the air temperature hits that blast furnace heat....not much you can do....they survive or they don't
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11 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
I usually grow a few varieties of tomatoes over the summer here in Perth (near Joondalup). Getting good results with Bonnie Best, Moneymaker etc. During the winter, the only success I've had so far is with Cherry tomatoes - which I grow on my patio. Out of most of the rain on the north side of the patio - but get several hours of sunshine (if there is any) during the day. The cherry tomatoes are fine for salads but not much else. Does anyone know of a larger tomato that can handle the Perth winter? I can keep them mostly dry...
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23 Jan 13, Elle (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles, I'd recommend Tigerella. I grew one plant in a large container in a sunny position under the patio last winter and was surprised at how well it did.
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13 Jan 13, ray (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi, i live in britain,.Our weather is changing as is most countries, try sub arctic plenty. S.A.P. let me know how you get on.
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24 Jan 15, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles L, Just wondering how the Siberian , variety went and where you got them from ?
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29 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for the tips! Couldn't find sub arctic here....but found a local supplier for Siberian tomatoes which sounds similar enough, I'll give them a go. Still looking for Tigerella in Perth. Found something called Mr. Stripey which looks identical and will see if they handle the winter too.
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11 May 13, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Perth and I grow a variety called Taste Sensation , we still have some in the freezer from the last crop ,which grew through the summer and now in May we have another bumper crop coming along they are a very heavy cropping, early fruiting variety and so much flavor, the fruits are of a medium size, brought them my local nursery as seedlings.
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23 Feb 13, Tracey (Australia - temperate climate)
Tigerella is available from the Diggers Club - they mail order seed and plants (but not sure about tomato plants) all over Oz. You could try Oregon Spring from Rangeview seed (I think it's a better flavour and stronger grower than Tigerella.
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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