Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 Feb 25, Jessica Santos (USA - Zone 11b climate)
What type of soil mix is best to grow in miami weather? I’m a beginner and getting mixed answers. I do want a organic method
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20 Mar 17, Bill (USA - Zone 10b climate)
In Miami, you'll want to plant your tomatoes in the cooler months.....the typical summer months that you'd think to plant tomatoes are too hot here in Florida....the night time temp needs to get below 80 degrees otherwise they will flower and then the flowers will fall off and not produce any fruit. So our cooler months, although still warm are the best months for tomatoes as well as some other veggies.....like peppers.
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01 Mar 14, GJX (USA - Zone 6a climate)
Tomatoes usually take 90 days to harvest. Tip: you need good fertilizer and do not water every day; yes it promotes growth, but once the plant is planted and well watered, then you should water only once a week. Of course this depends on your environment. Watering less will trigger the plant to produce more flowers. Plant 2" deeper than normal Use: 1 cup of gypsum in the hole 1 cup of calcium in the hole Your Tomato plant will be happy.
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08 Oct 13, Ferah (Australia - tropical climate)
I just wanted to say what a wonderful site this is. As someone who has just discovered the joy of edible gardening (despite many years of my mother trying to convert me!!), it is providing me with the basic and invaluable knowledge to help get me on the right track. I also really enjoy reading the Q&A posts and am picking up a lot of great tips. Thank you xoxo
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02 Oct 13, Peter (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Liz, what would be the best mulch to apply to the soil under tomato plants and vines? I'm growing them in a raised bed for the first time. The soil is very dark, whether wet or dry and I'd like to keep their roots cool until they can supply their own shade. I'm in Hawkes Bay. Thanks.
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28 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
In regards to those aphids under the leaves may actually be white fly these tend to scatter when disturbed if so I found that sticky traps yellow in colour work very well they are sold in most hardware and nurseries. Hung around plants with infested bugs you will be amazed how well they work and no need for spray.
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27 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Just a reminder to all those having problems with fruit fly in their tomatoes capsicum etc please ensure if you do find them in your fruit or vegetables pick up the infected fruit destroy by sealing in plastic bag leave in sun to destroy maggots if you don't the grubs will multiply giving you a bigger job next season in ridding of them at extra cost to your pocket ! PS DON'T just throw in the bin seal first ' From little things big thing grow"....
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01 Sep 13, THOMAS LEEPILE (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
ARE THE HEIRLOOMS SEEDS FOR TOMATOES GOOD FOR SOUTH AFRICA? THEY ARE OBTAINABLE IN NORTH AMERICA
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27 Jan 14, Sue (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
You can buy heirloom seeds in South Africa from livingseeds or from gravel garden or seeds for africa. My livingseeds seeds are UP! ie they grow!
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30 Dec 13, Phil (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
My second batch of heirloom tomatoes are ready to be transplanted. I bought the seeds over the internet on "Bid or Buy". I planted individual seeds in mini-containers and have had a 100% success rate.
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Showing 531 - 540 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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