Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

06 Mar 15, (Australia - temperate climate)
Fish emulsion is good for root development but not good for leaf and flower/fruit. I use compost, dynamic lifter and powerfeed liquid fertiliser. I use seasol when transplanting seedlings to help prevent root shock. Occasionally use Seasol after that but not much
01 Dec 14, Bill (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Tomatoes don't like to be planted near cucumber and capsicum plants. It is also recommended not to plant tomatoes in the same patch as cucumber and capsicum plants for a few years afterward. I am hazarding a guess to say that this maybe a cause to your problem.
04 Apr 14, Derbyiter (Australia - temperate climate)
What I have found is the plants are getting to much nitrogen in the soil mix... Therefore :- look at burning some green material( once it drys out with paper etc) or buy a bottle of POTASH, and mix into water, and give regular feeds of it. This counters the non- flowering stage, and kick starts ya fruiting cycle on your plants ! I had the same problems years ago, and a old bloke passed this trick onto me. I now use potash to self induce my passion fruit vines, with the best results ever seen and recorded for the fruiting vines around us here.... # my own dad swore by the use of potato e manure on his! but I never found it doing much for my plants! until meeting another old hand from the market days of yesteryear. Hope it helps ya..
14 Mar 14, Denise (Australia - temperate climate)
Sadly I can't offer help, but I have had the same problem. Above ground, mulched garden bed, seasol & water regularly. Plants receive lots of sun & are planted with capsicum, with lime & lemon plants nearby.
31 Jan 14, sandra (Australia - temperate climate)
how long will tomatoes produce for? (Perth, WA)
15 Jan 14, derek (Australia - temperate climate)
We have planted 5 Royal Flush Tomatoes bushes and they are thriving a producing an abundant crop. However, internal (all bushes are planted on the outer edges of the garden is a circle) all leaves and branches are dying, being eaten and there a black egg like things on a lot of the tomatoes and leaves. Some tomatoes in the inner circle are also being eaten? What can I use to spray? thank you
14 Jan 14, karen johnson (Australia - temperate climate)
is it too late to plant tomatoes from seeds ?
29 Dec 13, Melanie (Australia - arid climate)
Hi I planted Zucchini, Cucumber and Tomatoes in September, and they don't seem to be getting any higher than 40cm...they are fruiting, but I find it unusual that they are not higher now...Should I rip these out, and start again.
28 Dec 13, Julie (Australia - temperate climate)
Sam, We are borderline cool to temperate. We find that Roma will be later than cherry tomato type or beefsteak type. Try some Powerfeed Red for vegetables and also some potash to boost growth and flowering.
21 Dec 13, Andrew (Australia - temperate climate)
I read somewhere, but I can't locate the source, that over fertilising produces lush foliage but inhibits flowering. Have you been smashing the fertiliser? That includes Seasol and Powerfeed too. Do a little research on nutrient needs for tomatoes. I do know that as they begin to fruit they benefit from a potash rich dressing.
Showing 511 - 520 of 815 comments

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.