Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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12 Jul 14, Yuri Dreason (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
You grow wrong type for your climate. Try a good heirloom such as Reisetomate or a cherry tomato such as yellow pear.
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09 May 14, Bernie Bernhardt (Australia - tropical climate)
I live in Thailand and would like to know the names of tomatoes best grown in this region. Thank you, Bernie.
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27 Mar 14, (Australia - temperate climate)
when I pick my appolo tomatoes they leak juice and when I cut them open they have a brown strip through the centre
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24 Mar 14, Ronald mayanda (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
How do i protect my tomato plants from getting burnt in winter with coldness
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01 Mar 14, Stephen Matthews (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been told that some varieties of tomatoes can be grown successfully in winter. Has anyone done so? What varieties can be used and what special provisions...e.g. frost protection?
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27 Sep 14, Elizabeth (Australia - temperate climate)
Cherry tomatoes are possible to grow in low frost areas during the colder months providing they have a nicely sunny position. Water in the mornings to prevent drenched soil at night. Start them off in seed trays under glass or in warm area .Ensuring the soil is rich in organic matter will heat the soil slightly as it continues to compost. I find that cherry tomatoes can tolerate the early spring including very late winter and late Autumn as they are small and do not need as much sun to ripen. Although I have not grown tomatoes in the middle of winter the local community always has them growing. Did you end up growing them and how did you go? Happy gardening - Elizabeth
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02 Mar 14, Paul (Australia - arid climate)
I grow tomatoes year round in wire cages with shade cloth around them to protect from too much sun in summer and frost in autumn and winter. Not found one type to be useless but the best are San Marzarno, Apollo, Roma and any of the cherries. Be careful of overwatering and fungal disease in areas other than arid zones. I make sure the cage is large enough for the plant to have good air circulation and room for the flowers to form fruit, no less than 1.5m long ring lock joined to form a circle. Chooks scratch around the outside and keep earwigs etc away.
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25 Jan 16, Kate (Australia - arid climate)
Paul do you grow from seed and what months do you plant? My family suggested I should always have the summer bearing crop in before the end of August and now I'm trying to establish when is best times for other season crops so I can try and produce for as much of the year as possible.
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25 Feb 14, Issam (Australia - temperate climate)
Can i plant cucumber and tomato next to each other
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15 Feb 14, sad tomatoes (Australia - temperate climate)
I know its the end of tomato season but even during the peek of summer, the tomato plants produced minimal crops. My garden is above ground and packed with manure, vegie mix soil, compost and pea straw. I feed them fish emulsion regularly but still not a lot of tomatoes. They are positioned in full sun near zucchini and basil plants except one plants which is located near cucumber and capsicum plants. What did I do wrong?
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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