Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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30 Oct 14, Morgan (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato plant has been attacked by green caterpillars. I have been picking them off by hand but they are prolific. What else can I do?
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12 Jan 15, trevor (Australia - temperate climate)
Try spraying the caterpillars with Pyrethrum spray. It is a non-toxic spray that can be used on any insect pests. You can make your own (recipes found on Youtube) but I don't bother as I don't need it that often. I use a commercial concentrate from Yates. One bottle will last for years.
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10 Jan 15, Lynne (Australia - temperate climate)
I used to have the same problem and didn't like chemicals, now I buy old lace curtains from the Op shop sor a dollar or two and as the Flowers are pollinated and set fruit from the the bottom, I wrap the curtain around the plant and close it with clothes pegs, I leave all the flowering stems above uncovered, the fruit is protected from the White butterfly and the King parrots which love a ripe tomatoe. Also protests them from the sun. As the fruit sets higher I just move the curtain up. Hope this helps. Cheers lynne
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27 Oct 14, Maxine Palmer (Australia - arid climate)
I live in Cloncurry. It seams to hot for the bees. Can I pollinate the flowers myself. New to gardening.
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24 Oct 14, Chris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted my tomatoes two months ago in raised beds with a lot of rabbit manure. They already have a lot of fruits on them and have grown very strong stems. Thank you rabbits. Chris 23/10/14
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05 Oct 14, Kika (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
I have a few tomato plants, they seem to flower a lot but no fruit comes from the flowers. What am I doing wrong? Too much/little water?
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22 Sep 14, clive sea lake (Australia - arid climate)
Justin Bendigo, planted out my( seed grown ) tomatoes last week . when I consider frosts are waning .I harvest the seed from the best looking fruit put them down in punnets about July then transplant up into pots .this years plants were about 30/40 cm high I always plant them deep about the 2nd leaf (remove bottom leaves)
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21 Sep 14, justin (Australia - temperate climate)
hi I live in Bendigo Victoria when is the best time to plant tomatos? thanks.
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22 Aug 14, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Tried the new tomato seed Black cherry found it a prolific fruit bearer with very tasty fruit was away a month and these tomatoes when I returned few had ripened and were very sweet they weren't watered and relied on nature for water.great tomato.
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18 Aug 14, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Can I grow tomatoes directly into soil in late August in South Victoria, a temperate climate
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Showing 481 - 490 of 815 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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