Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

27 May 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
People say to plant tomatoes in a deep hole. Another options is to hill the plant up with soil as it grows. I do this with beans corn and tomatoes.
27 May 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Search around the internet to find a guide for planting in your region. A lot of veggies have different planting times depending on where you live in Aussie.
01 May 17, allan (Australia - temperate climate)
we are considering building a house approximately .5 kilometre from the coast south of adelaide and i was wondering if there is anything special we need to do to grow veg especially tomatoes greens ect
02 May 17, Sean (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
The long South Australian summers and drier climate should be ideal for growing most vegetables with a much lower risk of fungal problems than more humid or coastal areas. Log onto this site or buy the Gardenate app for more information.
01 May 17, Jack Zampella (USA - Zone 6b climate)
I am hoping that you will be able to answer this question for me. I have raised beds that I vegetable garden in. Everything I have read over the past 10 years says that 2 inches of compost should be added to the beds yearly which I have done. I fertilize with organic fertilizers. My question is I no longer have room for additional compost in the beds. Should I remove some of the "great" soil from the beds to add additional compost or wait until the compost decomposes to add more( this usually takes about 2 years) Thank you in advance for your help. Jack Zampella
02 May 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
If you have been adding 2" of compost every year for a number of years I would think your soil is quite fertile. You could, as you suggest, take some off. I would not add any this year, instead I would give the garden bed a dressing of garden or agricultural lime. The continual adding of compost to the soil is great for building up the soil but if there is a lot of organic matter still breaking down you would be safe to leave it for a season. The addition of lime will reduce the acidity and allow the release of a lot of nutrients currently there. Organic matter over time, while enriching the soil, will increase the acidity (lower the pH) and make nutrients less available. Lime reverses this. All the best.
08 May 17, Jack Zampella (USA - Zone 6b climate)
John (Australia) thanks for your response. That was going to be my course of action. You just confirmed it. Again thank you for your input.
19 Apr 17, Jim (Australia - temperate climate)
Some self-seeded cherry tomatoes came up at end of summer in a small bed on south side of fence. It's obviously not ideal location and most of the fruit are still green. Is it worth moving it to a sunny spot or just rip it out since it's autumn now?
27 May 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Just let them keep growing and see what happens.
21 Apr 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
Plants are not likely to transplant this late in the season. I suggest you make some Green Tomato Pickles with them and start early next season.
Showing 331 - 340 of 818 comments

-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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