Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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26 Aug 17, John C (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks folks. Importing seeds directly seems problematic because of bio-security issues. Tried Google & other engines and can find none of the USA varieties in Oz. + way too much contradictory info to be really useful (e.g. almost seedless to lots of seeds for the same type). Thought I'd try this forum. Thanks for the tips on the paste varieties. That provided a different focus for my searches.
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03 Sep 17, Yen (Australia - temperate climate)
The Diggers Club sell seeds for Amish Paste tomatoes. Perhaps one of their heirloom varieties might be what you're looking for.
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12 Aug 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes for tomatoes. Plant seeds now and keep in a warm place. After the frosts have finished plant out in the garden.
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11 Aug 17, Joanne (Australia - arid climate)
Hi, can i sow seeds in my greenhouse or is it still to cold, or can i start tomatoes that are allready baby stage. Jo
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17 Jul 17, brian jones (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Should i remove yellow flowers from immature plants just planted?
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20 Jul 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What variety of tomato have you planted. No, they will flower as they grow. If it is a bushy type of tomato most of the fruit will ripen at the same time. If it is an indeterminate type of tomato it will keep growing - as it grows it will keep flowering and when you come to harvest them, the harvest will be spread over weeks months. If it is not a bushy type (determinate) it can grow to several meters high.
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03 Jul 17, Len (Australia - temperate climate)
How early can I grow tomato seed under a cold frame in Victoria? We don't get frosts, but I was hoping to start sow seeds late July then repot under cover a couple of times before planting out in the garden in October. I know traditionally you wouldn't plant out tomatoes until Melbourne Cup day. I've yet to grow any tomatoes in my garden as this is a new project. Any feedback would be beneficial
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07 Jul 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
The guide says start seedlings in Aug Sept. Planting seeds and growing them for 1-2 mths isn't as easy as it sounds, especially if growing undercover. They can become spindly if trying to find light. I'd suggest you wait until August and after they have developed a few leaves give them some sunlight each day to toughen them up.
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07 Jul 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I'd probably wait until September to sow seed in a cold frame to reduce the chance of having 'leggy' plants.
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16 Jul 17, Len (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks John and Mike. Will hold off until Mid to late August. Much appreciated.
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Showing 301 - 310 of 808 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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