Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

03 Aug 20, Anonymous (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
My daughter recommends a big container, about 30+ liters. A general all round garden fertiliser, make sure you mix about 2-3 handfuls into the soil before you put the soil in the container.
30 Jul 20, lisa johnson (USA - Zone 8b climate)
cannot get my tomatoes to form fruit - in large containers - dropping flowers before forming - all varieties - healthy plants but no fruit - extremely hot in Southern Alabama with humidity and good rain - what times of year are best to plant —please advise!
10 Feb 21, Kent (USA - Zone 10a climate)
You are probably right about it being too hot. If they are in pots try moving them to get some shade earlier or later in the day. If they are in pots maybe try a bigger pot size. It might help to dissipate heat better with more evaporation longer water retention in the deepest part of the pot.
10 Aug 20, Janelle (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I just pull mine for the same reason. Is too hot to fruit. When the flower form the sun burn it. And the rain doesn't help much. If you are able to move it under a roof and keep it with sunlight, you may hold on until it gets cooler. It will produce then. Also it is time to start sowing tomatoes seeds indoor or in shade. Good luck!
22 Jun 20, Razan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
How much daily watering is necessary for growing tomatoes inside greenhouse in black plastic bags?
24 Jun 20, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Little seedlings/plants need a light watering each day - if hot twice a day. Bigger plants need a good watering each 2-3 days. For pots - you need to check the top 10-20mm of soil to see if it is wet or dry. If dry then water. The size of the plant and pot will decide how often you water. You want your soil moist not wet wet. It is a bit of trial and error until you work it out.
20 Jun 20, ben (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
what fertilizer do tomatoes like ?
22 Jun 20, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try googling what NPK fertiliser tomatoes like.
02 May 20, Mike Begley (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I live in the Coastal Overberg Region and planted my tomato seedlings in containers during March. They seem to be doing well at 50cm. Have I planted too late to enjoy more than one harvest?
05 May 20, Anon (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Plant seeds Aug and transplant from Sept to Nov. If you planted indeterminate kinds of tomatoes they will crop over several months.
Showing 131 - 140 of 807 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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