Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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13 Feb 21, SarahM (USA - Zone 10b climate)
In 10b here. You can grow either. Determinate only grow to size, produce fruit then die off. You would grow them in succession to get get tomatoes all season. Indeterminate tomatoes require space as the plants just keeps growing [kinda like a vine] while we have long days of sunlight. Better to decide what type of tomato fruit you want [paste, slicer, etc...].
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12 Feb 21, Colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
You can grow any tomato your heart desires in your zone! Do you like great big beefy slicing tomatoes? Little cherry tomatoes to eat like snacks? Plum tomatoes to make into sauce or sun-dry? All will do great. You may need to use shade cloth in the hottest months to keep them from scorching (I get 40 percent shade cloth from San Diego Seed Company but Amazon has lots of cheaper ones too). If you try to keep them alive through winter, assuming they don't have blight, you can string incandescent Christmas lights around them and cover with fleece if frost threatens. Indeterminate types are basically perennials and will get huge and possibly survive the winter in your zone, so space may be an issue. I usually have ONE big indeterminate sprawler like a Juliet or a Sungold, and let grow as big as it wants on a tower made of cattle panels, and then grow a number of compact bush tomatoes to get some varied crops for slicing, drying, saucing, etc. In your zone you can constantly start new
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25 Jan 21, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
Hey there, some of my tomatoes have a small pointed spur growing from the top of the fruit near the stem. Did a search on the interweb without much joy. Any information would be appreciated. cheers, Ian
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27 Jan 21, (Australia - temperate climate)
It happens - don't worry about it- I have no idea why.
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08 Dec 20, Joel (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What is the best variety of tomato for the Brisbane climate?
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09 Dec 20, Anonymous (Australia - temperate climate)
You can grow nearly all varieties, cherry are probably more suited for the summer, more disease resistant. Grow the kind that you like, check internet seed selling companies, more varieties there. I feel it is better to start growing from mid-late February
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24 Nov 20, Max (USA - Zone 10b climate)
My tomato plants in zone 10b (Los Angeles, CA) still continue to develop new flowers and grow a lot of new fruit. It seems like it is recommended to remove the plants at the end of the growing season... but how do I know when that is?
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26 Nov 20, Anonymous (USA - Zone 9b climate)
It is probably an indeterminate variety (will keep growing), they can keep growing if you fertilise and water them. Determinate varieties only grow so high and most of the tomatoes ripen at the same time. Depending on what your seasons are like you could keep growing it. Or if you have produced a good crop and need the ground for another crop soon pull it out and ready the ground for the next crop or season.
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22 Oct 20, Gerald Swanson (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Can you grow tomatoes in the winter (Zone 10a)? Are there certain varieties better suited for winter months here?
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23 Oct 20, colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
I believe I used to live in zone 10a when I lived in Los Angeles (Van Nuys). I *did* manage to grow some tomatoes over winter a couple of times, though I'm not sure it was worth it.
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Showing 101 - 110 of 807 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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