Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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08 Mar 21, (USA - Zone 4b climate)
I would wait until it warms up more - more like in the 50's
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26 Feb 21, Jean-Claude (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I transplanted my tomatoes a week ago and I notice today that a few of them are already showing signs of flowering. The plants are still relatively small. Should I pinch off these very early buds.I am sure there are experienced gardeners out there who know what to do. Please advise.
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01 Mar 21, Anonymous (USA - Zone 6a climate)
They have been in a pot where the nutrients have nearly run out so the plant is trying to reproduce its self, by going to seed. Make sure you have good rich soil. You need to prepare the soil well before planting out.
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08 Feb 21, Joe Musselwhite (USA - Zone 10a climate)
What type tomatoes are best or grow area 10a and should they be determinate or indeterminate?
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13 Feb 21, SarahM (USA - Zone 10b climate)
In 10b here. You can grow either. Determinate only grow to size, produce fruit then die off. You would grow them in succession to get get tomatoes all season. Indeterminate tomatoes require space as the plants just keeps growing [kinda like a vine] while we have long days of sunlight. Better to decide what type of tomato fruit you want [paste, slicer, etc...].
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12 Feb 21, Colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
You can grow any tomato your heart desires in your zone! Do you like great big beefy slicing tomatoes? Little cherry tomatoes to eat like snacks? Plum tomatoes to make into sauce or sun-dry? All will do great. You may need to use shade cloth in the hottest months to keep them from scorching (I get 40 percent shade cloth from San Diego Seed Company but Amazon has lots of cheaper ones too). If you try to keep them alive through winter, assuming they don't have blight, you can string incandescent Christmas lights around them and cover with fleece if frost threatens. Indeterminate types are basically perennials and will get huge and possibly survive the winter in your zone, so space may be an issue. I usually have ONE big indeterminate sprawler like a Juliet or a Sungold, and let grow as big as it wants on a tower made of cattle panels, and then grow a number of compact bush tomatoes to get some varied crops for slicing, drying, saucing, etc. In your zone you can constantly start new
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25 Jan 21, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
Hey there, some of my tomatoes have a small pointed spur growing from the top of the fruit near the stem. Did a search on the interweb without much joy. Any information would be appreciated. cheers, Ian
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27 Jan 21, (Australia - temperate climate)
It happens - don't worry about it- I have no idea why.
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08 Dec 20, Joel (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What is the best variety of tomato for the Brisbane climate?
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09 Dec 20, Anonymous (Australia - temperate climate)
You can grow nearly all varieties, cherry are probably more suited for the summer, more disease resistant. Grow the kind that you like, check internet seed selling companies, more varieties there. I feel it is better to start growing from mid-late February
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Showing 101 - 110 of 811 comments
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Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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