Growing Cabbage

Brassica sp. : Brassicaceae / the mustard or cabbage family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S     S S S        
      T     T T T      
      P     P P P      

(Best months for growing Cabbage in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 41°F and 64°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 20 - 30 inches apart
  • Harvest in 11-15 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dwarf (bush) beans, beets, celery, cucumber, onions, marigold, nasturtium, rhubarb, aromatic herbs (sage, dill, chamomile, thyme)
  • Avoid growing close to: Climbing (pole) beans, tomato, peppers (chili, capsicum), eggplant (aubergine), strawberry, mustard, parsnip

Your comments and tips

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07 Mar 09, Tricia (Australia - temperate climate)
Kaye, I also remember eating what was called 'greens', I asked my Mother and she said they were the outer leaves of cauliflower and cabbage and were also sold as loose leaves in bunches we had them a lot because they were cheap, this was in England though so it might be called something different here, I can remember them being a strong flavour, I havnt had them for years, Im growing cauliflowers and cabbages so I might give them a try and see if its what I remember. Mum said to strip the stem from the leaves and boil them in salted water until soft, drain and using a knife cut vigourously into the leaves while still in the pot. Good luck
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24 Jan 09, Harsha (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Is chinese brocalee fallen to cabage familly? when to saw ?
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20 Dec 08, slatter (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
igrew the cabbages but they took long to form the head could it be too much Nitrogen that allows leafy growth?.
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29 Oct 08, Nat (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted my cabbages a few months back and now the heads have come large enough to harvest. However when i cut them open i find that actual cabbage leaves are few and it actually looks like that flowers have began developing within the head. I cut a younger head and it wasn't that dense. Have i done something wrong or am i just cutting at the wrong time?
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19 Oct 08, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Planted mini cabbages in Blackheath about 8 weeks ago, they are comining along beautifully but about 20% of them appear to be going to seed, as above. They were grown from punnets, not seed, and are all the same variety. Do I break off the seed or leave them to develop? Rainfall, watering and fertilising are good. When are they ready to harvest?
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17 Oct 08, Carl (Australia - temperate climate)
I also planted mini cabbages a few months ago and had the same problems. They were getting tall stems with like clusters of seeds appearing off the stems. I also had never tried them before. I thought maybe the seeds were mixed up at Bunnings (they seemed like they were broccolli). I have since take them out and will try to grow a different cabbage.
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13 Oct 08, Trevor Stewart (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted a dozen cabbages at the end of May, they have come along fine, now being october they do not seem to want to hearten up. would this be a lack of water [ rainfall ] or is there another reason.
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29 Sep 08, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Sue, it sounds like you might have brussel sprouts, not cabbages... Perhaps the wrong seed was in the packet?
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28 Sep 08, Sue (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I planted mini cabbages a few months ago. They have grown very strange. They are getting tall stems with like clusters of seeds appearing off the stems. Is this normal? I have never tried them before.
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04 Sep 08, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Sandra, derris (rotenone) is an organic treatment for cabbage white butterfly, but it has some possible toxicity in humans (see http://www.organicnz.org/page/derris-dust) and is lethal to worms. An alternative is placing netting over the cabbages, so the pests can't get in to lay their eggs. Maybe you could pick off the current pests and net to prevent any more?
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Hi Mike, A good tip with your compost is to mix 1 part of greens such as your plant residue & grass clippings (Nitrogen), with the same amount of brown material such as dried leaves, especially gum tree leaves & trigs (Carbon) mulched up in the mower, very important to have equal parts for a good balance, I rake up leaves & twigs around the parks & schools and around stormwater drains. Grass clippings & plant residue are great but full of nitrogen which will give you leafy caulis but no heads. Also, worm pee is very important, worm pee mixed with water @ 9:1 ratio & poured around the base of each plant every 3 weeks conditions the soil which releases the nutrients out of the soil for the roots to feed off, I start my worm pee after seedlings emerge in the seed trays, I keep my worm farm moist & I catch 1 litre a week, but next year I will be increasing that to 2 litres a week. I use my worm castings at planting time plus a side dressing every 2 months around my plants & use my worm pee as my tea. I have clay soil over here on the east coast and it took me years to get it friable but it paid off in the long run. Also, mulching around you plants is very important for moisture retention & worm activity, especially sandy soils. Dried gum leaves are so important in any soil as Carbon is a very important element for healthy growth. PS: Space your cabbages & Caulis & you will have great results. BR...….Steve

- Steve Donovan

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