Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

22 May 10, Henk van der Pols (Australia - temperate climate)
About half of my broad bean leaves are kind of 'curled up'. There does not seem to be a fungus of any kind. Any brilliant ideas, anyone?
19 Oct 09, LIndsay (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I know broad beans are good for the soil. Is it the growing that puts the goodness in the soil or burying the empty pods and plants that puts the goodness in the soil or is it both?
14 Sep 09, Emily (Australia - temperate climate)
My beans are growing very well!! Well not the actual fruit itself but the bush is plenty and many more flowers are budding daily. I guess i need to wait till the temperature heats up a bit, for the beans to form. However, do i need a terrace or something for the beans to climb up on.
12 Sep 09, pigflyin (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
our beans are podding furiously for the last few weeks. about 6 inches long.... hardest part is to decide when to pick them. Got in 2 today, one is good size, one too small. FUN! pick off the growing tip does seems to encourage the pod to fatten faster... or it must be my wishful thinking.
10 Sep 09, Brian (Australia - temperate climate)
Our beans are growing well, with lots of flowers that the bees are enjoying. But on the whole patch, there is only one pod forming. Should we be patient and expect the others to follow the lone example? Is there anything we can do to encourage podding?
07 Sep 09, Trent (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'm growing BB for the first time and have noticed on a few of the plants the leaves are curling up lengthwise, starting from the tips of the plants. It doesn't look like a pest but I suspect it's a deficiency.Can anyone shed some light on this?
29 Aug 09, Cherry (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
This is the first time I have grown BB. How long after the plant flowers do you start to get the bean pods please.
27 Aug 09, Zoidberg (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Yes Nat you are right, the broad beans won't be killed by frost but they won't set pods in cool weather. You just have to wait until it's warm enough in your area for the pods to form - for us about mid-Spring.
27 Aug 09, jureien District high school (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Our broad beans at our school are podding up and the beans inside are about the size of a large pea, so theyb need a few more weeks to fatten up so we piick them...
26 Aug 09, Grahame (Australia - temperate climate)
You usually don't get broad bean pods forming until October. A side dressing of potash can help to produce stronger flowers
Showing 221 - 230 of 268 comments

Broad Beans/Fava Beans are very easy to grow - once you have all the facts. Here are some general guidelines, as the numbers vary depending on variety- in addition to wind verses shelter location etc. The kill temperature is -4c to -10c depending on the variety - the temperature needs to be sustained; that is, two seconds of -10c is not going to do anything... its all about when the freeze explodes the cells of the plant. I 've had mine in -6c on more than one occasion but the temp only stayed that low for about an hour- the high winds did the most damage. Those plants protected from the wind sustained little to no damage, those plants that where exposed lost about a third of their branches. Optimum growth temperature is somewhere between 18c and 26c The plants will grow from about 2c but go dormant below 2c, and also go dormant if it gets too hot. Too hot will generally reduce productivity and may comprise the ability of the plant to produce beans. So here is your temp line (I hope this turn out - it is meant to have temps above what happens at that temp) -10c -4c 0 2c 10c 15c 18c 20c 25c 30c ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ dead dormant growing OK growing well difficult to produce beans due to heat dead So what needs to happen to grow this plant 1. you need 80 or more days in the GROWING temperature zone to get to beans (though you may get a few here and there earlier). These days do not need to be continuous (in a row), Beans can go dormant, then grow, then go dormant etc. 2. you need SUN while growing 3. after 80 days in the growing temp range you should start getting beans: BUT favas need a lot of water during the flowering stage to produce beans... no water while flowering, no beans; low water, low bean production; lots of water while flowering healthy bean production You need to hit all 3 of these criteria to get beans... but don't stress, these beans are forgiving and will fight to hold on until conditions are good. Again, 80 days or more in temps above say 5c and below 28c, sun, lots of water while flowering. Now lets say you plant your fava beans with an intent to overwinter..... it could take 200 days of elapsed time to get your 80 days of growing temperature days. That's why you will see a days to harvest that ranges from about 80 days to about 240days. Spring sown favas will generally make it in 80 days, but if you overwinter there is no telling how long it will take to get beans BECAUSE you don't really know how many days are suitable growing days; if your winter is unseasonable warm you might get beans in 80 days, if your winter is unseasonable cold, you might not get beans until well into SPRING/SUMMER almost the equivalent of spring planting. Also note: that though favas fix their own nitrogen they still need the other two macro nutrients (phosphorus, and potassium) to grow as well as a variety of micro nutrients -- I give mine a dose of micronutrients at planting and manure while growing. Since favas are so hardy; I tend to grow mine in new beds; since usually nothing else will grow well in a new bed; I also use them in my WORST locations AND I grow mine over winter here, planting very late in summer, more like fall; as I want to bring in the last of the potatoes or tomatoes or whatever..... so they get the worst of everything (I'm shocked that they are growing in a bed that has not even fully composted and which I can barely dig in ), and still they do just fine. I like them for their edible green leaves during winter (flash fry them for use in a salad with croutons and other stuff - or wilt some in your soup.... like a side salad on top of your soup). These greens will keep you from getting stale stomach over winter if you are prone. The leaves taste like fava beans... so that is a bit strange, and the texture is tougher than most leafy greens; what can I say other than you'll get use to it. I believe in growing what grows well in my area, and adjusting my taste accordingly... or finding a recipe to hide the taste of things I'm not fond of but grow well. As far as pollination; I have got beans, not many, but some beans, in the middle of winter; no bees around then. I didn't hand pollinate or anything.... I am assuming wind did the job, but it could have been ants. I have noticed that when I STRETCH the growing season (overwinter), I get more stalks and greens with less beans; if I plant in ideal conditions and timeframes I get less greens and more beans. Real Estate in my garden is limited; so since these plants can handle the terrible conditions I grow them in winter.... leaving the ideal temps for my cherry tomatoes, potatoes and yams. Without a doubt BEANS are the big producers in my garden; whether they be runner beans, or fava beans; or which I have a half dozen varieties of each.

- Celeste Archer

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