Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

21 Mar 21, Tony (Australia - temperate climate)
I use good old chicken manure (Rooster Booster or similar) and dolomite lime. Dig both in well a few weeks before planting. Don't forget to plant your broad beans in a different spot than the year before
31 Jan 21, Aaron (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Apparently, falafel was originally made from dried Broad Beans. I've tried them in a "meatless" patty in burgers. First boiling the beans till they start to soften then putting them in a blender. They don't have the gritty texture chickpeas can have. Even a confirmed carnivore like me was happy eating them.
22 Aug 21, Richard Stancliffe (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Nice - will have try that.
16 Oct 20, Matt Molloy (New Zealand - temperate climate)
what should ph of soil be?
19 Oct 20, (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Best to plant them in the autumn. They need cool/cold weather.
18 Oct 20, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
a ph of 6.5 seems to suit most vegetables
05 Jun 20, Pastor Dennis Naidoo (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
Good Day I have planted Tom Thumb peas in May and its now sprouting. What nutrients should i feed the pea plants. Regards Dennis
08 Jun 20, Anonymous (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
You should prepare your ground/soil a few weeks/months before you plant things. Mix in compost or add some mulch and wet it and turn it over a few times to break it down over a few months before planting. Add some composted manures etc. Also some blood and bone. If you do that then you don't need much fertiliser. If your soil is rich now it don't need anything. If you have poor soil just use a general gardening fert 10-13N 2-4P 3-6K. Or buy an organic fert - they are about 4N 2P 3-4K.
03 May 20, Ganas Naidoo (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
Please tell me, is broad beans and canned butter beans the same
04 May 20, liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
No, they are different varieties of beans
Showing 41 - 50 of 344 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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