Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

03 Sep 10, kathy anne greer (Australia - temperate climate)
I have beautiful broad beans growing ,they are flowering and look lovely but I have never grown them before and I keep looking for something, How do they become beans and from what? Is it the flower itself? , I know I seem silly but I do not know what to look for ... ha, ha apart from beans that is! thankyou kathy
05 Sep 10, Michelle (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Yes, the beans come from the flowers. Keep an eye on them - you will notice a little tiny pod that looks like a pea pod coming from the bottom of the flower as it withers. The pods then grow quite fast. They are ready to pick whenever you are ready to eat them. You can actually pick them early (when ther are the size of your pinkie finger) and cook them whole as you would with green beans. However most people pick them when they are the thickness of a thumb, and about 2 times the length of a thumb, or even bigger (you will get bigger beans). Split open the pod, and extract the beans. They should look white. Blanch them for a minute in boiling water, and the white skin on the outside will go wrinkly. It's a simple matter of popping the green beans out of the white skins, and you are ready to eat them, or cook with them further. They are lovely in frittatas and risotto. Once the harvest is over, you can cut up the plants and plough them back into the soil as compost, or simply add them to your compost heap. That way the plant is useful twice. Good luck!
03 Sep 10, Beryl (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Can someone advise me how to know when the beans are ready to pick? Do I wait for them to go brown/dry?
01 Sep 10, Monty (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have small brown grubs/caterpillars (approx. 10mm) burrowing into my broad beans. Does anyone know what they are and more importantly how to get rid of them organically. I have picked off the affected pods. Would Dipel work on these grubs? Thanks.
09 Feb 11, gary (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Dipel should be fine to use on them.
25 Aug 10, Doug (Australia - temperate climate)
Planted mine in March and growth very vigorous and have had flowers since end May. However no sign of beans. Still have good flower set and have bee activity, I will wait until mid Sept. and if still no beans will pull lot and consign to the mulch pile.
05 Sep 10, Michelle (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Last year mine came on quite late, and we finally picked our crop just before Melbourne Cup Day, in time for our tomatoes to go in. Don't pull them out in haste! They will reward you if you wait.
01 Sep 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Don't give up yet! Last year my broad beans came on in October. This year I planted them extra early - have have lots of flowers but no sign of beans yet. Hz is right.. it's been colder this year so they're coming a bit later. I wouldn't pull them until at least mid Oct!
01 Sep 10, Hz (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Doug, last year my broad beans flowered in Sep and I picked beans in Oct/Nov. This year has been much colder, so I expect they will be even later. Small new broad beans are divine in a stir-fry, definately worth the wait if you have room to keep your crop in the ground. Also worth chopping them down to six inches after the first flush, they will regrow and give a second crop, if you have space of course. Oh please don't chop em down just before the beans turn up lol - good luck.
22 Aug 10, Tarsh (Australia - temperate climate)
My Broadbeans have ants on the plants...I've sprayed with a garlic spray but that stops them for a couple of days then they come back again. How do I stop these ants?
Showing 241 - 250 of 344 comments

Broad Beans/Fava Beans are very easy to grow - once you have all the facts. Here are some general guidelines, as the numbers vary depending on variety- in addition to wind verses shelter location etc. The kill temperature is -4c to -10c depending on the variety - the temperature needs to be sustained; that is, two seconds of -10c is not going to do anything... its all about when the freeze explodes the cells of the plant. I 've had mine in -6c on more than one occasion but the temp only stayed that low for about an hour- the high winds did the most damage. Those plants protected from the wind sustained little to no damage, those plants that where exposed lost about a third of their branches. Optimum growth temperature is somewhere between 18c and 26c The plants will grow from about 2c but go dormant below 2c, and also go dormant if it gets too hot. Too hot will generally reduce productivity and may comprise the ability of the plant to produce beans. So here is your temp line (I hope this turn out - it is meant to have temps above what happens at that temp) -10c -4c 0 2c 10c 15c 18c 20c 25c 30c ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ dead dormant growing OK growing well difficult to produce beans due to heat dead So what needs to happen to grow this plant 1. you need 80 or more days in the GROWING temperature zone to get to beans (though you may get a few here and there earlier). These days do not need to be continuous (in a row), Beans can go dormant, then grow, then go dormant etc. 2. you need SUN while growing 3. after 80 days in the growing temp range you should start getting beans: BUT favas need a lot of water during the flowering stage to produce beans... no water while flowering, no beans; low water, low bean production; lots of water while flowering healthy bean production You need to hit all 3 of these criteria to get beans... but don't stress, these beans are forgiving and will fight to hold on until conditions are good. Again, 80 days or more in temps above say 5c and below 28c, sun, lots of water while flowering. Now lets say you plant your fava beans with an intent to overwinter..... it could take 200 days of elapsed time to get your 80 days of growing temperature days. That's why you will see a days to harvest that ranges from about 80 days to about 240days. Spring sown favas will generally make it in 80 days, but if you overwinter there is no telling how long it will take to get beans BECAUSE you don't really know how many days are suitable growing days; if your winter is unseasonable warm you might get beans in 80 days, if your winter is unseasonable cold, you might not get beans until well into SPRING/SUMMER almost the equivalent of spring planting. Also note: that though favas fix their own nitrogen they still need the other two macro nutrients (phosphorus, and potassium) to grow as well as a variety of micro nutrients -- I give mine a dose of micronutrients at planting and manure while growing. Since favas are so hardy; I tend to grow mine in new beds; since usually nothing else will grow well in a new bed; I also use them in my WORST locations AND I grow mine over winter here, planting very late in summer, more like fall; as I want to bring in the last of the potatoes or tomatoes or whatever..... so they get the worst of everything (I'm shocked that they are growing in a bed that has not even fully composted and which I can barely dig in ), and still they do just fine. I like them for their edible green leaves during winter (flash fry them for use in a salad with croutons and other stuff - or wilt some in your soup.... like a side salad on top of your soup). These greens will keep you from getting stale stomach over winter if you are prone. The leaves taste like fava beans... so that is a bit strange, and the texture is tougher than most leafy greens; what can I say other than you'll get use to it. I believe in growing what grows well in my area, and adjusting my taste accordingly... or finding a recipe to hide the taste of things I'm not fond of but grow well. As far as pollination; I have got beans, not many, but some beans, in the middle of winter; no bees around then. I didn't hand pollinate or anything.... I am assuming wind did the job, but it could have been ants. I have noticed that when I STRETCH the growing season (overwinter), I get more stalks and greens with less beans; if I plant in ideal conditions and timeframes I get less greens and more beans. Real Estate in my garden is limited; so since these plants can handle the terrible conditions I grow them in winter.... leaving the ideal temps for my cherry tomatoes, potatoes and yams. Without a doubt BEANS are the big producers in my garden; whether they be runner beans, or fava beans; or which I have a half dozen varieties of each.

- Celeste Archer

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