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Showing 331 - 360 of 19913 comments
Onion 12 Aug, Vicki (USA - Zone 8a climate)
Plant out means to plant your transplants out into the garden.
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Onion 07 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Hi, it means to take the seedlings you've grown from seed, and plant them in the ground or bigger pots.
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Onion 08 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Thanks
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Squash (also Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) 06 Feb, Mike Johnson (USA - Zone 6a climate)
I have Georgia Candy Roaster squash seeds, Heirloom. Can they be grown in 6A?
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 05 Feb, Annette James (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have 2 healthy looking plants of the large purple variety. They are producing flowers ok but no fruit. Any ideas on why this is happening?
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 12 Feb, (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
May be no bees - try hand pollination in the mornings.
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Tomato 05 Feb, Barbara Shaw (USA - Zone 8b climate)
What should I pretreat my soil with before I plant tomatoes . They are pretty and then they get root rot on bottom. I heard calcium . Is there anything else Thanks
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Tomato 20 Feb, jacob (USA - Zone 10a climate)
my understanding is that root rot is due to a lack of calcium, but calcium is usually plentiful in garden soil. the real issue is with inconsistent watering, meaning the plants cannot properly absorb that calcium. water more!
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Tomato 24 Feb, Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate)
I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.
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Tomato 03 Feb, Carol Edwards (USA - Zone 6a climate)
What is the best tomato to grow in my zone
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Tomato 06 Feb, (USA - Zone 3a climate)
What ever variety you like to eat.
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Rhubarb 02 Feb, Mark (Australia - temperate climate)
a. Rhubarb leaves - yellowed/dead leaf edges (removed from plant 30 Jan) b. Rhubarb - overall stunted growth & poor stem growth; rhubarb should be in abundance this time of year planted in raised beds good high organic soil Ph 7.6
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Cucumber 31 Jan, filippo italiano (Australia - temperate climate)
hi have eg planst and the leaves ar curling and doing up can you recommend the cure for the plants thanks fill
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Brussels sprouts 30 Jan, Greg (USA - Zone 7a climate)
It says to avoid growing close to tomatoes. What does "close" mean? 3 ft, 5 ft, 10 ft, 20 ft????? thanks for the help, Greg
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Brussels sprouts 01 Feb, (USA - Zone 4a climate)
3' or so.
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Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 25 Jan, Dot (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Is it ok to plant brassica (not celery) after corn, in the same spot?
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Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 30 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes
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Daikon (also Japanese radish, Lo Bok) 25 Jan, Angela Ojeda (USA - Zone 10a climate)
can you add cover crops planting information.
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Carrot 25 Jan, Bill (Canada - Zone 6b Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Hello: I live in Zone 6B Stoney Creek. I would like to get 2 harvest of carrots this year but not sure when to plant seeds throughout spring, summer or fall. Can you please advise? I was thinking of planting Bolero Nantes carrot seeds. Thanks for your time! Bill
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Carrot 09 Feb, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
I thought I might mention: after you harvest your first crop of carrots you probably have enough time to grow a crop of the smaller varieties of radish. Radishes: ******** Germination temperatures: ideal 15c - 25c acceptable 10c - 30c ************ Germination time: 5 -10 days *************** Growing temperatures: ideal 10c -18c intermediate to short day lengths -Growth must be continuous and rapid for good quality. Acceptable grow temps 4c – 24c. Roots of globe varieties tend to elongate and develop poor shape in hot weather when the tops also grow taller and larger than in cool weather. Long days induce flowering or seed stalks (bolting) and with warm weather the seed stalk may develop so rapidly that no edible root is formed *************** Days to harvest: Regular radish reach market size in 21 to 28 days. Chinese radish take 50 to 90 days (or more) to mature. ** A regular radish seed can produce a radish from planting to harvest in about 33 days. This crop also likes short day lengths and cooler temps making it an ideal crop to “squeeze” in late in the season, before the first frost. With a first potential frost date of October 15 – you could direct sow radish seeds like Cherry Belle, or French Breakfast (both with about 21 days to harvest from seedlings) on September 7th and reasonably expect to harvest your radishes before the first frost. You could also sow in trays and then plant them out… if real-estate is an issue, or if you need to get the radishes started before your harvest your carrots (timing) ************* Storage and Conditioning the recommended storage temperature is 0 C with a relative humidity of 95% to 100%. Topped radishes packaged in perforated plastic bags will keep for 3 to 4 weeks. Bunched radishes will keep 1 to 2 weeks. ********** Temperature information was gleaned from: ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE SERVICES and amalgamated with information from individual radish varieties such as Cherry Belle. ****** if you don't harvest your radishes on time they will be pithy/mealy
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Carrot 01 Feb, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use a shade cover while germinating the seeds - like shade cloth.
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Carrot 30 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Best to check the planting guide for your climate zone. No chance to two repeat crops.
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Carrot 28 Jan, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Carrots: -- Germination minimum temp is 2c: optimum germination temp is 10c to 25c (the temperatures must be sustained). Seeds germinate over a 2-week period -- if crust forms on the top of the soil, germination will be restricted. *********** Optimum growing temps : 15C to 20C , with a minimum of 5C and a maximum of 24C Outside of the growing range (less than 5c or more than 24c) the carrot goes into "dormancy/holding pattern" with extreme temps killing the carrot. ********* Average days to harvest for carrots is 60 to 80 days. The days to harvest are calculated based on ideal growing conditions (temperatures/sunshine/water). *************** Having lived in your area MANY years ago – I can recall – and checked with environment Canada – Based on last year’s temp – June was a good month to start planting carrots – and September had decent carrot growing temps – as did the first week of October. I would plant carrots in semi-shade as Stoney Creek can get VERY HOT in mid-summer – and this is a problem for carrots that don’t like temps over 24c. ********* So, what I see is a total of 129 days of good carrot growing weather (June 01 – to the first week in October). You need 2 weeks for germination and depending on the type of carrot about 80 days to harvest: total of 94 days. If you plant starting June 01 – you can plant carrots every couple of weeks until around July 5th (07/05 plus 95 days yields a date in the first week in October). If you want to do only 2 plantings – then I would plant on June 01, and again the last week of June. This is based on 80 days to harvest – if you have carrots with a higher number of days to germination and/or days to harvest (like dragon carrots that take 90 days) – adjust accordingly. You need your last harvest in by the first week in October so count backward to find your last planting date. Bolero Nantes have the following stats: Germination 10 - 20 days and days to harvest 70. The site indicates that your last planting should be 3 months before your first expected frost date -- and it looks like your first expected frost date is October 15 -- which yields a last planting date of: July 15th which is a couple of weeks later than what I have calculated .... remember that Nobody can guarantee what your weather will be ..... when it comes to your last planting, I would error to the side of planting a little early -- and I would feel a little bit short on time with a July 15th planting...but I have heard of people planting later and doing just fine.
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Jerusalem Artichokes (also Sunchoke) 24 Jan, Annie (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Im in zone 9, will my sunchokes come back if no frost?
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Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 21 Jan, Michael (Australia - arid climate)
Hey guys 2 questions if somebody can help , I have 5 zucchini plants all looking healthy had a few fruits yet am having many smaller yellow zucchini, I am hand pollinating in the mornings yet these turn yellow before the flower opens Second question Have Black eggplant plants , quiet large lots of flowers yet not a single fruit yet Any tips for a novice gardener ? Thankyou
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Tomato 20 Jan, Kim (USA - Zone 7a climate)
What are the Best tomatoes for zone 7A to grow and fertilizer?
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Potato 19 Jan, Dot (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I want to get a crop in and I need to grow them in planter bags. Can I grow them in layers or only one layer per bag?
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Potato 19 Jan, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
It depends -- not all potatoes are suitable for towering (layering). Additionally, I have found that the potato plant SPENDS A LOT OF ENERGY GROWING UP, UP, UP, as you cover its leaves with soil (leaves have specialized cells designed to collect light - and why you would want to cover them with soil is beyond me this is not really a good move -- leaves are not roots). My recommendation is: if you have a DEEP PLANTER bag starting at about six inches from the bottom -- in sort of a pattern that looks like the 5 on a die (dice) -- make about 3-4 inch round holes -- and make them on the sides that receive light keeping the holes about 10 inches apart (6 inches away from the bottom and 10 inches away from the top of the bag). Fill the bag with a good soil/compost/manure mix of some kind -- starting from the bottom -- when you are level with a hole, place a seed potato there, level or slight below the bottom lip of the hole, and about 3 inches from the side of the bag (so there is soil between the potato and the hole) -- continue up until the bag is full -- the top layer of potatoes can be planted as usual. Yes, the soil will come out of the holes ... not to worry -- just be sure that the soil covers the topmost holes by at least 6-8inches. That is - each potato planted in the bag should have access to a WINDOW (air and light) OR those planted on the top layer (like a usual planting) should be down about 9 inches or so. The Key to this planting is ALL potatoes need to be able to put leaves somewhere -- they will follow the air and light to find that spot -- all potatoes need water -- so you will be watering from the top of the bag only (like a potted plant) -- but you water DEEPLY, since the water needs to make it to the very bottom potato plants -- so maybe you water every 5 days or so... depends on the soil, temperature, amount of light , amount of wind/air (which whisks moisture away), Additionally, ensure there is drainage at the bottom of the bag .... maybe a two inch hole directly at ground level. It might be better to use a crate of some kind.... rather than a bag...anyhow this set up will work with any kind of potato plant without consideration as to whether or not it can handle towering. Hope this helps. Conversion of inches to cm : 1 inch = 2.5cm
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Peas 15 Jan, Jasmien (USA - Zone 9a climate)
When is the latest date to plant sugar snap peas in Tucson 9A and how long until Harvest typically?
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Peas 03 Feb, Dean (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Peas are a cools season Crop. So check what the cool season is for your area in zone 9a, and Plant then. I'm guessing (but don't KNOW) That zone 9 has no cool season. Which tells me that Sugar Snaps will be poor at best. UNLESS they have a strain for Florida.
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Showing 331 - 360 of 19913 comments
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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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